Axelrad Climbing The climbing blog of twins Eden, and Itai Axelrad 2020-02-03T00:45:00+00:00 1 Itai Axelrad itaiaxelrad@gmail.com Tramway Night Session 2007-08-21T17:20:00+00:00 /posts/2007-08-21-tramway-night-session/ <p>We escaped the summer heat by heading to our usual spot, Tramway! Damon Corso was with us and ended up setting up his camera to capture some great shoots of the Tribe Called Conquest wall. Really fun day out with the Hangar 18 upland crew. Can’t wait to go back!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3383.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3382.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3355.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3360.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3362.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3363.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3364.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> Photoshoot for DeadPoint Mag 2008-10-25T17:15:00+00:00 /posts/2008-10-25-photoshoot-for-dead-point-mag/ <p>We met up with Laura Griffiths and a bunch of Organic pads to get some shots for the upcoming DeadPoint magazine feature. Stay tuned for the release! In the meantime, here are some photos from the trip to Bishop:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/3.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/5.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/6.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/7.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/8.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/9.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/10.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/11.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/12.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/13.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/14.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/15.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> DeadPoint Magazine Feature! 2009-02-14T22:34:00+00:00 /posts/2009-02-14-dead-point-magazine-feature/ <figure><img src="uploads/dpm3prev.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Cover</figcaption></figure> <p>Here is a link to Climbing Narc’s write up: <a href="https://climbingnarc.com/2009/02/issue-3-of-deadpoint-magazine-now-available/">https://climbingnarc.com/2009/02/issue-3-of-deadpoint-magazine-now-available/</a></p> <p>Here are a few highlights from issue 3:</p> <ul> <li>Video of <a href="http://joekindkid.com/">Joe Kinder</a> sending Southern Comfort Right (5.14b) at Little River Canyon, AL</li> <li>An interview with twins Itai and Eden Axelrad</li> <li>A timely profile of Julian Bautista, who just took 5th place at the <a href="https://climbingnarc.com/2009/02/abs-10-national-bouldering-championships-results">Adult ABS Nationals</a> comp despite having food poisoning</li> <li>Interesting thoughts from Jason Kehl on the process one goes through when doing the FA of a highball boulder problem</li> <li>A jealousy inducing story about the untapped hard route potential in Catalunya, Spain</li> </ul> Birthday Bishop '09 2009-04-14T21:21:00+00:00 /posts/2009-04-14-birthday-bishop-09/ <p>Birthday Bishop trip in 2009! We managed sends of Hit the High Hard One sit (V9), Bubba Gump Variation (V10) and The Mandala (V12).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/mandala08.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, on the Mandala crux move</figcaption></figure> <p>Video of The Mandala can be seen below: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_knJN0ndbig&amp;context=C3594030ADOEgsToPDskLp6uXYl-aUxgofxhnzCSw5">The Mandala</a></p> Squamish 2010-07-30T00:51:00+00:00 /posts/2010-07-29-Squamish/ <p>Squamish was the perfect place to beat the summer heat. The forest canopy provides continuous shelter from sun or rain (because it rains year round), keeping the boulders dry and cold. In Squamish friction is your best friend and a trip should be planned around good weather reports.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/9997_BlackSlab_1280439869.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Black Slabbath, V7</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/9997_blog4_1280439871.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Some warm up slab</figcaption></figure> <p>We climbed every day because the weather is unpredictable and spontaneous and you never know when it might rain. A rest day at any of the nearby lakes is also a possibility if it gets too hot to climb. In the summer it stays light until 10:00 or even later, so climbing days are very long. In total, my brother and I managed to climb on 16 of our 18 days in Squamish. We ran around the forest trying to get on as much as possible, jumping on classics, highballs, lowballs, and unnamed climbs. We climbed with a great local Squamish crew and a few friends from back home. They showed us some hidden gems and gave us tips about food and the town.</p> <p>The Squamish style is very different from what we have back home. It’s much more balancy, technical and cryptic. It took a few days of getting used to, but we were excited to learn new movement. By the end we managed to snag some classics including Gibb’s Cave (V8), Sesame Street (V9), Worm World Low (V10), Velcro (V10), No Troublems (V10), The Fury (V10), The Egg (V11), and countless others. We had a great time and can’t wait to get back.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/9997_blog2_1280439870.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Velcro, V10</figcaption></figure> Sequoia National Park 2010-09-02T00:30:00+00:00 /posts/2010-09-01-sequoia-national-park/ <p>It is hard to find a climbing place during the summer in California that isn’t uncomfortably hot. My brother and I headed towards the beautiful mountains of Sequoia National Park in search of new climbs and cooler temps.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/10108_IMG9061_1283407437.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>There were no boulders near the campsites but just 3 miles up the trail to Eagle Lake we found ourselves amidst a boulder field. The temps were perfect because the hike up to Eagle Lake placed us at around 10,000 feet. In the surrounding area of Eagle Lake were large granite boulders slightly polished by the snow, which was still lightly present in August.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/10108_IMG9066_1283407437.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The boulders had proud and obvious lines up solid crimps. The bouldering was fun and in the most beautiful of settings.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/10108_IMG9072_1283407437.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/10108_IMG9081_1283407437.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/10108_IMG9091_1283407437.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> Update 2011-07-29T00:42:00+00:00 /posts/2011-07-28-Update/ <p>The first year of college has kept me awfully busy. However, I did manage to make some climbing friends at school and was surprised to find just how many students climb. Cal Poly has just started its collegiate climbing team and I’m excited to be a part of it. This summer has been all about getting back in shape so I can confidently compete for the Cal Poly team. I have been making day trips to Black Mountain to boulder and develop this beautiful summer climbing destination.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/11934_264767101503009364556106479906099769269347186n_1311954545.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Photo by Alex Hoffman</figcaption></figure> Black Mountain, CA 2011-07-29T00:45:00+00:00 /posts/2011-07-28-black-mountain-ca/ <p>This last Saturday I headed up to Black with a few friends from the gym. We made our way to Hop Scotch early in the morning. It is a great looking climb but unfortunately the temps were not as ideal as we had anticipated even in the early morning. I was forced to make quick work of the sloping crimps before they became too greasy to climb. I sent Hop Scotch (V9), and made my way over to the Tour de France boulder.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/_HopScotch_1311896122.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, sending Hop Scotch (V9)</figcaption></figure> <p>Tour de France (V10), climbs up slanting bullet patina slots into a throw and finishes with a interesting top-out 18 feet off the deck. I sent Tour de France after a quick lunch break and we made our way over to climb some moderates.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/_TourdeFrance_1311896122.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, sending Tour de France SDS (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>Isaac Palatt put up a few moderate FAs in the area on the Africa boulder. He than showed me a project he had spotted last weekend when he was up. He said it might be very difficult but I found alternate beta that made the climb doable. I sent the project after much cleaning. It is now called Captain America (V9), and should be in the new Black Mountain guide book coming out soon.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/_CaptainAmericaFA_1311896122.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, sending his FA, Captain America.</figcaption></figure> <p>(All photos by Isaac Palatt)</p> Pine Mountain, CA 2011-10-17T00:56:00+00:00 /posts/2011-10-16-pine-mountain-ca/ <p>This Friday was my first time climbing in Pine Mountain. It has large sandstone boulders with interesting features. I wish I would have gotten up there sooner than this year. I headed up to the mountain at 8 on Friday morning with five other climbers from San Luis Obispo. We were all excited to get outside at the fist sign of fall temps.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2128.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Adam pumping gas in the middle of nowhere</figcaption></figure> <p>Although this trip was more like training for the trip to Bishop next weekend, it was fun non the less. The climbers on the trip were all of different calibers so we got on many different problems. I tried many highball moderates as well as some tricky slabs.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2180.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex Biale on Tomatoes Are The Answer</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2188.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody as seen from the top of the problem above</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2207.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex Biale sending a V8</figcaption></figure> <p>I also snagged three V8’s that day, but what I really came to Pine Mountain for was Whiplash (V11), possibly the hardest problem there. I sent it after an hour long session. The 10,000 flies and so-so weather made the send more difficult than it should have been. We all returned home content with our day. I can’t wait to go to Bishop!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/_phpfnwqxdPM_1318806321.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, sending Whiplash (V11). (Photo by Cody)</figcaption></figure> Bishop, December 2011 2011-12-23T23:00:00+00:00 /posts/2011-12-23-bishop-december-2011/ <p>We were off for winter break and a family trip to Mammoth was planned. My brother and I insisted on stopping in Bishop on the way up for a few hours. We arrived in Bishop, and after a quick lunch at Schat’s Bakery, we decided to drive up to the ice caves at the top of the Sads.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2596.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View from the Sads</figcaption></figure> <p>We warmed up and jumped on Beefy Gecko. It had been years since we sent the left exit, called Beefcake, but after rediscovering the beta we were able to send the right exit.</p> <p><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zCZX-2T8E-E">Video of Eden sending Beefy Gecko (V11)</a></p> Jupiter Boulders 2011-12-27T02:14:00+00:00 /posts/2011-12-26-jupiter-boulders/ <p>Finals were done and it was time to get outdoors. We teamed up with Isaac and Anthony and planned on heading up to Black Mountain on Sunday. But when we reached Banning we could see that the mountain was still covered in snow, and some dark rain clouds were moving in. We cut our losses and opted for the Jupiter Boulders, which are lower in elevation.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/view.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Here is a view from slightly up the canyon</figcaption></figure> <p>Anthony was our guide since he was the only one who was familiar with the area. He quickly lead us to Air Flash Gordon (V8), and Unemployed Black Astronaut (V9). After flashing Air Flash Gordon (left), and snagging the V9 on the second go we hiked over to the Supernova Boulder.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/DSC_0277.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Photo Credit Isaac Palatt</figcaption></figure> <p>Supernova is a compression problem that starts on a blunt arete and tops out on a slab. After sending the problem last week, Anthony assured us that it was one of the best climbs in the area. Itai, making quick work of Supernova (V10):</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2467.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2469.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2470.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2471.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2472.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2473.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2474.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2475.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2476.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2477.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>After some trial and error Isaac and I were able to unlock the problem. <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F0Gci-LlBFs&amp;context=C3d2f080ADOEgsToPDskKHcLZ7d1nSRbya0p-u0VLx">Here is a link of isaac sending it</a>.</p> <p>Then we headed down toward an aesthetic boulder that was home to some great climbs, including Suck My Venus (V8) and Lick Uranus (V11). After a flash of the V8 by both Itai and I, and a send on the third go by Isaac, we all began working Lick Uranus.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/DSC_0306-1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/DSC_0327.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden and Itai flashing, photo cred Isaac Palatt</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2505.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac sending</figcaption></figure> <p>But by the time we had unlocked the beta to the eleven we were all out of energy. So we left it for next time and headed for some good Thai food on the way back home.</p> Brickyard, CA 2012-02-04T23:00:00+00:00 /posts/2012-02-04-brickyard-ca/ <p>It had been too long since I last climbed on rock. A climbing trip had to be planned this weekend. A few friends were headed to Yosemite but unfortunately I was unable to join them. However, I was able to make a day trip to the Santa Barbra mountains instead.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2685.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>It was a beautiful day in Santa Barbra. A friend had mentioned to me that a sit down start to a problem had broken and had not been resent yet. The problem, which is called Grotesque Old Woman, starts on small crimps and big moves before topping out on some horrible slopers. I gave the project a few goes but the slopers were in direct sun so I decided to return later that day for better temps.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2724.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai climbing a moderate at the Brickyard, photo by Cody.</figcaption></figure> <p>I returned to the project and sent it first go. The sit start to Grotesque Old Woman was speculated at V10 before the break; however, I don’t think the break added enough difficulty to make the problem a grade harder.</p> <p>I can’t wait to return to the Brickyard to finish all the other projects it has to offer.</p> Rocklin & Columbia Boulders 2012-02-06T01:45:00+00:00 /posts/2012-02-05-rocklin-columbia-boulders/ <p>I had to take advantage of this winter’s unusually dry weather, so before school got chaotic I decided to check out some new local bouldering areas. The first was Rocklin, a set of boulders hidden in a small park right off a main road. The rock was good, but the lines were not necessarily top notch. Regardless I was happy to get outdoors and snag a couple of fun climbs.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/3.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Quarry Pinch, V8 - Photos by Alex Shimm</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/5.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Windmill, V8 - Photo by Alex Shimm</figcaption></figure> <p>About a week after Rocklin, the local climbing crew (Alex, Damien, Theo and I) headed to Columbia Boulders. These boulders are located in a community college’s arboretum, and offer a fairly large amount of climbing material - not to mention a lot of potential for development. For most of the day we stayed at the Triple Cracks boulder, which houses one of California’s best V6s.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/6.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Theo on Twin Cracks, V4</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/7.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex on Lobster Claw, V5</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/8.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>After playing around on some of the sit starts and variations on that boulder we decided to hike around and check out some more climbs. At the end of the day we realized that this area was definitely worth coming back to.</p> Castle Rock 2012-02-15T18:48:00+00:00 /posts/2012-02-15-castle-rock/ <p>After a weekend at San Louis Obispo, Alex and I decided to stop at Castle Rock on the way back to Davis. It rained the previous night and we were worried that the rock would be too wet. While the ground was damp, the rock remained fairly dry and we were able to climb. After some aimless hiking through the overcast forest we managed to find one of the main boulder areas.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0200.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1928.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1921.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1924.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Bates Eliminate Sit, V10 - Photo by Alex Shimm</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/403362_2706066339152_1481580039_32077030_653608925_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex working a V4</figcaption></figure> <p>After I Sent the Bates Eliminate Sit, and we worked on some other moderates in the area we decide to scope the rest of the park. We headed down the hill to the Bates Arete, which Alex almost sent.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0171.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0172.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0173.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex working Bates Arete</figcaption></figure> <p>After this we went over to the classic Eco-Terrorist; and while I made some significant progress, I wasn’t able to send. We have a three day weekend coming up, so if the weather permits we will head back to Castle Rock on Sunday. Looking forward to the return trip.</p> CCS Climbing Competition 2012-02-16T02:13:00+00:00 /posts/2012-02-15-ccs-climbing-competition/ <p>Come to the CCS bouldering competition in San Luis Obispo! Here is a <a href="http://vimeo.com/36815638">promo video</a> made by Alex Biale featuring himself, Joe Maier and I.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/CCScomp.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cut Loose</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> The Bad Girls of Bishop 2012-02-18T19:45:00+00:00 /posts/2012-02-18-the-bad-girlsof-bishop/ <p>It was a three-day weekend, and my roommates and I planned on taking advantage of it by making a trip to Bishop. We departed at 4 in the morning on Saturday to meet up with the hoard of other SLO climbers. Cody drove us the six hours to the base of the stormy Mount Tom.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2861.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>It was great to be back in Bishop. I headed straight to Grandma Peabody to get on my long time project, Direction (V13). My brother and I had sent Thunderbird, the V11 stand start, years ago and I have been wanting to send Direction ever since. I had tried the lower crux move on the previous Bishop trip but never stuck it. I gave the problem a go and felt rather close to sticking that move. I tried a few more times and changed up my beta slightly and was able to hold it. I got really excited and decided to rest for a minute before giving the problem a real go from the start. I stuck the lower crux and found myself at the start of Thunderbird.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2915.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Direction 1. Photos by Cody</figcaption></figure> <p>I had not repeated Thunderbird since the first time I sent it, years ago.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2916.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Direction 2. Photos by Cody</figcaption></figure> <p>I let out a Sharma call (DAAAAAAAAATTTTTTT!!!) and held the swing. My project was sent!</p> <p>Just a few seconds later, I ran into Michael Bautista, a long time friend. It was a great surprise. I climbed with him for a bit on Michael Caine Sit (V12). He was able to send and I got to the last move but was too tired to give it another go. Cody, however was able to snag his project, Seven Spanish Angels, first go. After the day was done, we returned to our campsite along with around 25 other friends. The next day was mellow for me. I was content with my earlier send and decided to take it easy. It was Austin and Dom’s first time to Bishop, so Cody and I showed them around.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2843.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Setting up camp</figcaption></figure> <p>I was sitting on top of the Sunshine Slab when I saw Alex running over. He had the biggest smile on his face and his eyes were wet (not from crying, he probably just got some sand in them). He had just sent his project, Haroun and the Sea of Stories. Congrats everyone on the amazing weekend of climbing!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2784.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex on Haroun</figcaption></figure> <p>As always, I can’t wait to return to Bishop. What is everyone doing for spring break?</p> <p>-Itai</p> CCS Comp! 2012-03-04T03:05:00+00:00 /posts/2012-03-03-ccs-comp/ <p>This weekend the local climbing gym was holding a CCS and Citizens competition. I volunteered to set some climbs for the comp and for finals. Joe Maier and I were in charge of men’s 3rd and last finals route. The whole setting crew did an amazing job. It was lots of fun.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex Biale on Men’s 1</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/2.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex Biale on Men’s 2</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Spring Break 2012-03-23T04:01:00+00:00 /posts/2012-03-22-spring-break/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2990.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Bishop!</figcaption></figure> <p>I met Alex, Joe, and the rest of the SLO crew at the Happy boulders for the first of my three days in Bishop. I had not been to the Happys in years so I had plenty to do. I climbed hard all day but unfortunately managed to send nothing. I opened plenty of projects though, all of which I felt very close to doing.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3065.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Buttermilk Road</figcaption></figure> <p>The second day we decided to climb in the Buttermilks. It was rather warm and everyone was feeling low on energy.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3038.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex slappin’ on the Sharma Traverse</figcaption></figure> <p>It was not until I spotted a likely first ascent, that I built up some psych. Alex and I began cleaning the holds on the project. It did not look like the most amazing line, but climbed surprisingly well. The movement was difficult but extremely fun. The project is located between the Dyno Problem and The Buttermilker in the cave area. It starts with a left hand on a thin in-cut horizontal crimp, and a similar vertical crimp for the right, and climbs directly upward.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3014.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Photo by Alex Biale</figcaption></figure> <p>High step right and pull to an undercling/gaston with your left then make your way up to the slopey crimp rail and finish. I sent the problem and speculated it to be V10, though I am not certain about the grade. (A possible name for the problem is “Crimps of Wrath”)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3019.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Matching the crimp rail</figcaption></figure> <p>The final day was slightly overcast. This was quite a relief considering how sunburnt everyone was and how hot it had been the previous two days. I warmed up for the first time that trip on a quick lap of the Sunshine Slab as well as Grandma’s southwest arête.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3073.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Southwest Arete, Photo by Joe Maier</figcaption></figure> <p>I then headed up towards The Mandala and began working the beginning moves with Alex and Joe. The sun was steadily creeping onto the holds. I knew my attempts were limited. I took a break and waited to give it a really good go. I stuck the first move and made it all the way to the last but fell off. My finger was bleeding and I was feeling pretty thrashed. I gave the problem another two goes with no success.</p> <p>My time in Bishop was done, but I know I will be back soon.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3086.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View from the Buttermilks road</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Horse Flats 2012-03-26T23:44:00+00:00 /posts/2012-03-26-horse-flats/ <p>My spring break was coming to an end, however, I managed to get one more day of climbing before heading back to SLO. Isaac, Charlie and I were destined to Horse Flats this Saturday, to meet up with some more of the LA crew for a day of bouldering. Horse Flats is tucked away in the mountains behind Pasadena in the Angeles National Forest. Its granite boulders sit at 6,000 feet, and are similar to, but not quite as good as Black Mountain. I had not been to Horse Flats for years, and was looking forward to climbing the classics of the area.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3146.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The crew made quick work of most of the notable climbs, The Peanut Problem (V7), Bonesprits (V2), and Orange Flambe (V8) being some of them. Isaac had mentioned another climb, called Blank Generation (V10), which he had sent on an earlier trip. He suggested that Charlie and I try it. We arrived at the problem, and Charlie snagged the send after a handful of goes. I rewarmed up and managed to flash the short problem. Isaac captured the send on video <a href="https://youtu.be/ErWU1bUcTtc">https://youtu.be/ErWU1bUcTtc</a>.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Spring Break - Bishop 2012-04-01T23:47:00+00:00 /posts/2012-04-01-spring-break-bishop/ <p>The Sunday after finals I headed for Bishop with fellow Davis climbers Alex and Fed. Due to the rest of the group’s varying schedules our plan was to meet up with them slightly later in the week. After a <s>12 hour</s> quick detour through the Sierras we found ourselves in a rainy Bishop. We set up our tents and hoped that tomorrow would bring sun and dry rock.</p> <p>It did, so we headed out for the Buttermilks. After a quick warm up I began working on Direction (V13) while Alex and Fed jumped on Go Granny Go. I managed to climb the sit into Thunderbird (the stand) several times.</p> <p>I decided that all I needed was a rest, and that I would show the guys some more classics and then come back later in the day with good temps. I gave it one last go before heading out; which was a mistake, because I managed to split my tip on the Thunderbird crimp. I did my best to bury my frustration and sorrow. At this point we met up with our friend Damien, and so I spent the rest of the day showing the guys my favorite moderates - which they easily dispatched.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/559596_2934016557765_1090340333_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex sending the Cave Problem, V6</figcaption></figure> <p>I took the next day off due to my finger and showed the guys the Happy boulders. Again they didn’t disappoint and sent lots of classics. At the end of the day my finger was feeling better but I started getting sick with flu-like symptoms.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/557753_2934035518239_1481580039_32171301_1676422052_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Damien on The Hulk, V6</figcaption></figure> <p>On Wednesday I felt sick but decided to climb anyways. With the help of pain killers and energy drinks I sent a few climbs including Acid Wash Right (V9) and Standing Kill Order (V11). (Below is sequence shot of the move into the undercling - photos by Alex Shimm)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/3.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The next day I felt much worse, and spent most of my time laying out on a pad in the Buttermilks. When Friday rolled around I still felt sick but worked out the moves to Kill On Sight with some Santa Cruz climbing friends. Saturday was very windy and the group’s morale was fairly low. So around 2pm I headed back home with Damien and Teddy. What we thought would be an easy drive turned out to be an epic adventure through a Donner summit blizzard. I won’t go in to details, but I’ll leave you with a photo of us putting chains on the car before heading up the mountain.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0222.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Glad to be home</p> <p>-Eden</p> First Ascent Update 2012-04-19T00:09:00+00:00 /posts/2012-04-18-first-ascent-update/ <p>I have been emailing Wills Young about my recent Bishop first ascent, Crimps of Wrath. Wills, who is the author of the fantastic Bishop Bouldering guide, was pleased to hear about it. He decided to post about it in his blog <a href="http://bishopbouldering.blogspot.com/2012/04/possible-new-v10-on-cave-boulder.html">bishopbouldering.blogspot.com</a>.</p> <p>A few people have commented already, several having repeated the climb. Thanks again Wills for posting, (and writing the guidebook).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/Crimps-of-Wrath.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Beta</figcaption></figure> <p>P.S.</p> <p>Check Wills’ blog for a video of Joe Maier sending Luminance. Good job Joe!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Fort Ross 2012-05-06T19:08:00+00:00 /posts/2012-05-06-fort-ross/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0282.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>On Saturday I headed to Fort Ross with Damien and Alex. Fort Ross is a little known coastal area in Sonoma County; home to a single beach side boulder. It has many classics ranging from V1 to V10. Below are some photos from the approach.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0241.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0246.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>When we got to the boulder Damien pointed out that the sand is exceptionally low. This made the fall a few feet longer, and it also exposed some rocks right under the landing. (In the photo below Alex is standing on the rock that is normally buried by sand) The only line which we could safely try was the direct face climb Fort Rossta, V6.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0252.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>(Trying to figure out the best pad arrangement)</figcaption></figure> <p>By the end of the trip we all managed to send the climb. Here are some more photos:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0256.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>(Alex topping out)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0272.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0273.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0274.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0275.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0276.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0277.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>(Damien sticking the crux move, and topping out)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0287.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>(The drive back)</figcaption></figure> <p>- Eden</p> Morro Bay Project 2012-05-29T02:19:00+00:00 /posts/2012-05-28-morro-bay-project/ <p>This weekend, Joe showed me the cave project he found at Morro Bay. The low roof lies just off Morro Rock, in a field of poison oak. Joe had cleaned and tried the project several times before, but could not figure out the last move. We went back to the project hoping to unlock the last move.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3286.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We were unable to stick the last move, but linked the middle moves of the problem a few times. I am sure we will return to the project to figure out the last move soon though.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Vegas, Baby! 2012-06-18T22:58:00+00:00 /posts/2012-06-18-vegas-baby/ <p>It was a humbling weekend for a boulderer.</p> <p>Isaac invited me to join Charlie, Emily and him for a weekend at Mount Charleston. I accepted. On Friday, we drove past Buffalo Bill’s and Jumbo Love into the hot Las Vegas desert. Isaac’s mother, Kay, lives in Las Vegas, and generously offered us a place to sleep for the weekend. Thank you, Kay!</p> <p>We woke up Saturday and headed west, up into the mountains to climb and escape the heat. Although the cliffs are situated at around 9,000 feet, they are in direct sun in the morning and offer better temperatures during the afternoon.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3505.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The view from a Charleston cave</figcaption></figure> <p>The blue and white limestone caves are notorious for their pockets and lack of foot holds. I discovered this myself, on the first climb of the day, Heatin’ Up The Hood (5.11c). Charlie and Isaac ran up the climb. I reached the top after taking several times. I lowered, and to Isaac’s disbelief I was so flash pumped that I could not belay. Emily climbed up to the last clip and fell.</p> <p>The blue and white limestone caves are notorious for their pockets and lack of foot holds. I discovered this myself, on the first climb of the day, Heatin’ Up the Hood (5.11c). Charlie and Isaac ran up the warm-up. I reached the top after taking taking several times. I lowered, and to Isaac’s disbelief, I was so flash pumped that I could not belay. Emily climbed up to the last clip before taking a fall.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3420.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Emily Heatin’ Up the Hood…and taking a fall</figcaption></figure> <p>Next, we headed towards some harder climbs for Charlie to train on. He jumped on a Charleston classic, Infectious Groove (5.13b). After trying the climb twice, Charlie decided that he would return the next day for the send. Isaac also took a lap on Urban Decay (5.12c).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3475.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Charlie on Infectious Groove (5.13b)</figcaption></figure> <p>Isaac wanted to take us to one more massive limestone cave before we left the crag. The cave was home to many Charleston classics. Isaac got on Closing Down (5.14a) and was able to climb every move bolt to bolt. Charlie tried it as well, and stuck most of the moves.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3522.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac on Closing Down (5.14a)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3580.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Charlie clipping the anchors of Infectious Groove</figcaption></figure> <p>The next day, Emily and I managed to snag Witness to a Killing (5.10d), our first send of the trip (my first sport climb ever). We finished warming up and headed back towards Infectious Groove. Charlie sent the climb on his third try of the trip. I gave the problem a try and worked through some moves before getting too pumped. Isaac jumped on after me to try and repeat, but fell at the top crux.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3594.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Infectious Groove (5.13b), photo: Charlie Andrews</figcaption></figure> <p>Next, we walked over to Corrosion (5.13a), the last climb of the trip. The pockets were dripping water but Charlie and Isaac still got on it.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3659.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Charlie coming off Corrosion (5.13a)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3672.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac, clipping on Corrosion (5.13a)</figcaption></figure> <p>Our weekend was over. It was lots of fun and I learned quite a bit, but still have a lot more to learn. We got home to Los Angeles at midnight on Sunday, tired and sore. Charlie had to wake up in a few hours to fly to Atlanta to train for Nationals. Good luck, Charlie!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Black Mt. Bash 2012-06-25T20:14:00+00:00 /posts/2012-06-25-black-mt-bash/ <p>Isaac and I drove up to Black Mountain on Friday morning. Isaac was meeting Natalie (who he is coaching) and Douglas Hunter (father of the four-by-four) to film an athlete profile.</p> <p>I left Isaac and met up with Eden, Marina and Jacob, who drove up to Black Mountain for the day. Together we walked over to the Glow Worm Project, an unclimbed block that Isaac, Eden and I found last year. Isaac had been working the moves since the beginning of the season and was able to show me the beta. I stuck all the moves but found that linking them would be very difficult. We speculate the grade to be around V12.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3722.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the Glow Worm Project</figcaption></figure> <p>The next day, Isaac, Douglas and I hiked out to the Captain’s Junk area to climb Das Angst (V10). I fell off the dirty top out holds several times. Unfortunately, I split the tips of two of my fingers and burst a bad blood blister trying the problem. I was done climbing for the trip. In the afternoon, Douglas left for home and Isaac and I decided to hang out at the campsite and wait for better temps. Four hours later, we mustered up some psych and hiked out to Bang On (V12). I watched Isaac work, and come close to sticking, the improbably large first move.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3774.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac slappin’ the second hold on Bang On (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>At night, we went back to camp and joined the Black Mountain Bash. We watched the slacklining and interesting climbing competition. We woke up on Sunday, sunburnt, sore and tired. We made breakfast and drove home. It’s good to be home.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Black Mountain Weekend 2012-07-23T19:34:00+00:00 /posts/2012-07-23-black-mountain-weekend/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4024.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We headed up to Black around midday on Friday. We set up camp, then headed out to Captain’s Junk boulder. The giant block is home to many climbs ranging from V2 to a V12ish project. It kept us busy for the afternoon.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4015.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac on a V4 arete</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3981.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac on a V6</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4001.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake and Marina working on the opening moves of an unknown problem</figcaption></figure> <p>As the temps cooled we headed over to the steep underside of the boulder. Brett, Isaac, Itai and I worked on the Vhard project. We managed to climb the problem to the crux move, which we all got close to sticking. But when the lack of light and strength kept us from making any further progress we decided to get on back to camp for some food and rest.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4028.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Throwing for the crux move</figcaption></figure> <p>By the time we woke up the next day and headed out to the boulders it was already very hot. We made a pit stop at the boulder basin to jump on Big Greeny and also met up with some more LA folk.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4061.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Brett on Big Greeny</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4068.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4069.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4070.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4071.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4072.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Big Greeny</figcaption></figure> <p>When we were done at the boulder basin we headed up to Born Under Punches, a fun V7. After a lazy session of the problem we ventured further up and in to the mountain to a new location. But by then the heat of the day was at its peak and our energy was waning. Marina, Jake, Brett and Will ended the day by working on a reachy V4, while Isaac worked on his own possible FA slightly up the hill. By the afternoon the heat, along with the thought of Chipotle forced us to pack up and head back home.</p> <p>- Eden</p> Malibu Creek 2012-07-27T02:16:00+00:00 /posts/2012-07-26-malibu-creek/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4138.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai entering the crux of Brenna</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4095.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac and Itai checkin’ out Brenna (5.13d)</figcaption></figure> <p>Isaac, Eden and I returned to Malibu Creek for the first time in many years. It was a hot day, but we escaped the heat (and hoards of noobs) by traversing over to the Ghetto Wall. The Ghetto Wall features many Malibu classics that we have yet to do, Brenna (5.13d), being the one we had our minds set on for the day.</p> <p>We warmed up quickly and hopped on the route. Brenna climbs out of a cave with casual opening moves, followed by a very difficult boulder problem. Isaac, who had worked the problem previously, showed us the beta that he and Charlie Andrews had worked out. However, Eden found different more suitable beta that got us both up to the crux move. We took turns working the route for most of the after noon, taking breaks to look at the boulders near by. Isaac fell on the crux move and looks very close on the climb. We all promised to return to Brenna and even bring some crashpads to boulder.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4164.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden clipping</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4156.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>photos Isaac Palatt</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4084.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac hitting the crimp</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Sender One 2012-08-15T22:19:00+00:00 /posts/2012-08-15-sender-one/ <p>Hundreds of climbers gathered at The Gear Co-Op courtyard this Wednesday afternoon to witness the unveiling of the most futuristic gym ever designed, Sender One. Adidas, Five Ten, La Sportiva, Evolve and many more companies set up booths and offered free merchandise, food, and beer.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4490.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>People standing in line to get their posters signed by Chris Sharma</figcaption></figure> <p>Chris Sharma, who is one of the four partners opening Sender One, took the stage and showed the crowd clips of his accomplishments this past year. Wes, Wes and Alice, (the other three partners) joined him on stage later to explain the features of their new gym.</p> <p>The 22,000 square-foot facility includes fifty plus foot lead walls, a world cup competition bouldering arena, yoga / fitness rooms, and a play room called Funtopia. What more can you ask for?</p> <figure><img src="uploads/394479_277110585723665_1092959206_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The gym is set to open sometime in January. If you live in the area (or not) you must check it out! We are all looking forward to finally seeing a west coast gym host a major competition.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/582744_277110492390341_1967985168_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Chris Sharma and his lady, Daila Ojeda, were kind enough to sign some posters for us.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4494.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden and Daila Ojeda</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4495.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai and Daila</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4496.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>(Putaaa… love, Chris) (Venga Bitches, Daila)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/XGqHRFq_BqvqlHZ1fDku6Q8mvERlGzJfBMm45mAHBaU.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Between two legends, Chris Sharma and John Long. Photo by Matthew Hulet.</figcaption></figure> <p>If you want more information, or have any questions, contact Sender One through their website: <a href="http://www.senderoneclimbing.com/">senderoneclimbing.com</a></p> <p>- Itai</p> Malibu Bouldering 2012-08-20T17:44:00+00:00 /posts/2012-08-20-malibu-bouldering/ <p>Climbing in 90 percent humidity, 90 degree weather is less than ideal. Isaac, Miguel, Mariana, Eden and I discovered this yesterday while trying some of Malibu Creeks’s finest climbs. We still enjoyed the day despite the heat. Here are some photos:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4528.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden holding on to the sweating 2 finger roof pocket on Chubs (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4514.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai trying his luck on the Malibu Project (V14). Photo by Isaac Palat</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4544.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Miguel climbing up the Malibu classic, Ghetto Blaster (5.13b)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4561.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac figuring out the sequence on a Project</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4572.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac pulling through the next move on the Project</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4585.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, on a roof climb (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4611.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai climbing another pocket overhang (V5)</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Aesthetic Climbing Gym 2012-09-04T04:02:00+00:00 /posts/2012-09-03-aesthetic-climbing-gym/ <p>This Sunday, my brother and I attended the highly anticipated ACG opening competition. The $3,000 first place cash prize drew elite climbers from all over. Jon Cardwell, who flashed all five qualifier routes and two of the three finals routes, took first for men. Alex Johnson, being the only one to finish women’s final problem 3, took first for women. Here are the rest of the results and some photos from finals.</p> <p>Male:</p> <ol> <li>Jon Cardwell</li> <li>Kyle Owen</li> <li>Rob Danastasio</li> <li>Garrett Gregor</li> <li>Daniel Woods</li> <li>Matt Wilder</li> <li>Michael Orourke</li> <li>Roland Wagner</li> <li>Ian Dory</li> <li>Brian Kim</li> </ol> <p>Female:</p> <ol> <li>Alex Johnson</li> <li>Courtney Sanders</li> <li>Nina Williams</li> <li>Sierra Blair-Coyle</li> <li>Natasha Barnes</li> <li>Kati Hetrick</li> <li>Nicole Grider</li> <li>Vian Charbonneau</li> <li>Jill Carpenter</li> <li>Mariana Mendoza</li> </ol> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5475_2.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sierra Blair-Coyle keeping her balance on the Women’s 1</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5477.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Looking at the finish</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5493.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Nina Williams looking up Women’s 1</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5537.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jon Cardwell, taking a look at what’s to come on the rest of Men’s 1</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5517.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Matt Wilder, bustin ’ out the roof on Men’s 1</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5533.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Matt Wilder on burly Men’s 2</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5512.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Daniel Woods finishing up Men’s 3</figcaption></figure> <p>Congratulations everyone! It was a great competition and I can’t wait for next year.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Bishop, Bishop, Bishop 2012-11-07T02:53:00+00:00 /posts/2012-11-06-bishop-bishop-bishop/ <p>The first trip of the season had been on everyone’s mind for quite some time. The temperature was nice and school was manageable this weekend, so I took the opportunity to get out of San Luis Obispo and into the Sierras.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5636.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We drove up Friday afternoon and met up with some of Joe’s friends. The next morning we warmed up in the Buttermilks main area before making our way into the Pollen Grains.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5580.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, sending Smooth Shrimp (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5583.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Austin trying Go Granny Go (V5)</figcaption></figure> <p>It had been years since I climbed in the Pollen Grains, and I was excited to get on some of the beautiful lines it had to offer. First on the list was the classic highball, Suspended in Silence. With a dyno opening move and a scary finish, this climb is one of two that gets four stars in the Bishop Bouldering guidebook, (the other being The Hulk).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5586.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody dunking on Suspended in Silence (V5)</figcaption></figure> <p>We had a fun session on the tricky Lydia’s Mouth, which took everyone more than a few goes to figure out. Then, after a few hopeful attempts on the stunning Specter, we moved to the equally impressive Jedi Mind Tricks.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5603.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Patrick, staring down the next hold on Lydia’s Mouth (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5619.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The homie, on Jedi Mind Tricks (V4)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5609.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe pulling hard on Specter (V13)</figcaption></figure> <p>We left the Pollen Grains and began our precarious search for The Swarm. It got dark before we could find the boulder, so we turned around. After narrowly escaping death several times trying to get back to the cars (I’m joking, mom), we decided to return to our campsite and call it a day.</p> <p>Sunday was a hot and sendfull half-day at the Happy Boulders that included a pad-less flash of Grindrite Sit (V9), Dance the Night Away (V9), Redrum Sit (V10), the Tableland’s classic, The Hulk (V6) and a lap on Heavenly Path to finish it off.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5648.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ellen on a sketchy V4</figcaption></figure> <p>It was a great start to the season. As always, I can’t wait to be back.</p> <p>The Swarm: 1 | Me: 0</p> <p>Round 2: Thanksgiving</p> <p>- Itai</p> Thanksgiving In The Milks 2012-11-25T20:11:00+00:00 /posts/2012-11-25-thanksgiving-in-the-milks/ <p>Despite the thin skin on my fingers and a looming cold, I could hardly resist returning to Bishop. On Tuesday afternoon, Cody, Joe and I set out on the now very familiar drive to the Buttermilks. We found a beautiful camping spot close to a river and pitched a tent before falling asleep. We awoke to a beautiful sunrise and spent the first of our days in the Buttermilks’ main area.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5673.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sunrise in the Buttermilks</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5712.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Trevor, about to bump on Moonraker (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5737.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody crimping on Checkerboard (V8)</figcaption></figure> <p>The next day we decided to hike to Secrets of the Beehive, an area that I had never been to before. I had wanted to try The Swarm for some time and was very eager to finally give it a shot. We warmed up on some fun nearby climbs and jumped on The Swarm. I gave it four goes before splitting my tip. I had stuck the first move and hit the next hold though, so I felt content with the day.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5741.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on The Swarm (V13), photo by Cody</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5748.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe and Cody eyeing the impossibly tall Too Big To Flail (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>On Friday we hiked to the outlying Bardini Boulders in hopes of escaping the weekend crowd. Joe and I threw ourselves at Maze of Death (V12) with no success. We returned to the Milks later that day and Cody sent a bunch of new climbs.</p> <p>The next day was rather warm but we ventured out to the hot Tablelands anyway. I taped up my finger and managed to snag a quick send of He Got Game (V11) and spent the rest of the day climbing fun new moderates. Our last day had come too quickly, and it was time to end our amazing Thanksgiving trip. It’s always so hard to say goodbye to Bishop.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5674.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Joshua Tree 2012-12-17T08:01:00+00:00 /posts/2012-12-17-joshua-tree/ <p>Cody, Marina, Jake and I left LA’s wet concrete for a short, but much needed, day trip to the sunny Joshua Tree. I had not been there in many years and was excited to get back on some of the classics at the Barker Dam area. We got our egos crushed by the impossible A Street Car Named Desire, sighted a rare bird(man), and climbed a really long traverse.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5806.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joshua Trees, assorted shrubbery and granite formations.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5816.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake with an impressive flash of The Chube</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/487010_10151208748528382_229822770_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, (not getting any farther than where he is at the moment this photo was taken) on Iron Resolution. Photo by Marina.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5826.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody gettin’ high on High Noon</figcaption></figure> <p>Hope everyone has/had a Happy Hanukah, Merry Christmas and Holy Kwanzaa!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Lizard's Mouth 2013-01-21T17:39:00+00:00 /posts/2013-01-21-lizards-mouth/ <p>What a beautiful weekend! Jason, Marina, Cody and I enjoyed the warm Santa Barbara hills and ocean view while scrambling around Lizard’s Mouth this Sunday. None of us had been to the area before, but we managed to find a handful of boulders to keep us busy for the day. I sent a good amount of new climbs and got spit off the top-out of even more. We all rediscovered that Santa Barbara is notorious for its sloping and desperate top-outs.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5888.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina slappin’ on Call Me (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5906.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason, unlocking the beta on Fritz Bulge (V6)</figcaption></figure> <p>We warmed up at the Sunset area and slowly made our way over to the crowded entrance way and the Lizard’s Mouth formation for which this place gets its name. We went around the corner and got on the one move wonder King Dinosaur. By this point in the day everyone was rather wiped (not whipped, Cody) so we sprawled out on the rocks and got sunburnt. On the way out Cody suggested that we try the classic highball, Lord of the Flies.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5928.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody trying to find that King Dinosaur (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5956.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason getting high above the trees on Lord of the Flies (V1)</figcaption></figure> <p>There are still plenty of problems to go back to, and I’m sure the short drive and beautiful weather will keep us coming back.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Owl Tor 2013-01-29T19:35:00+00:00 /posts/2013-01-29-owl-tor/ <p>Owl Tor is hidden in the hills east of Santa Maria. It has about a dozen routes on conglomerate rock and manufactured pockets, all of which are steep and burly. Jason had just bought a new rope and Cody and I were eager to help him break it in. We started off on a short but powerful route called Auto Magic (5.12a).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6122.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason flaking the new rope</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6127.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Testing out the rope with a whipper on Auto Magic. (YOLF).</figcaption></figure> <p>The “warm-up ” at the crag is a sandbagged 70-foot 5.11d called The Power of Eating. Every move is made at full extension to some of the biggest holds you will ever fall off of.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6230.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody trying to clip on The Power of Eating (5.11d)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6217_2.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason on The Power of Eating (5.11d)</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Slo Op Comp! 2013-03-05T19:32:00+00:00 /posts/2013-03-05-slo-op-comp/ <p>The annual Citizen’s / CCS (Collegiate Climbing Series) Slo Op competition was held this past Saturday. Collegiate teams showed up from all over California, so Eden got a ride down with the UC Davis team. He didn’t compete, but he did shoot some photos. I opted out of setting this year so I could compete on the 90 new amazing routes that were put up.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6432.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The crowd</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6449.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Conor on Men’s 1</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6483.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Nic on Men’s 2</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6515.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Chris and I neck and neck on Men’s 3</figcaption></figure> <p>Congratulations to Chris and Karsyn on first place and a big thanks to the amazing volunteer setting crew. They did a wonderful job and I can’t wait to get back on all the problems I didn’t have time for during the competition. (Full results can be found at <a href="http://greendoghost.com/sloopclimbing/?page_id=45">http://greendoghost.com/sloopclimbing/?page_id=45</a>)</p> <p>- Itai</p> Presidents Day Bishop Trip 2013-03-08T18:38:00+00:00 /posts/2013-03-08-presidents-day-bishop-trip/ <p>It was a beautiful three-day weekend. The weather was perfect and people flocked to Bishop from all over the country. Despite the large crowds, Jason, Nick, Cody and I still managed to have a great time climbing, heckling and stargazing. Here are some photos of the trip:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6255.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Sierras</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6327.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, testing his balance on Robinson’s Rubber Tester (V0)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6347_2.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason snagging the pinch on Soul Slinger (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6395.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Nick warming down on the jugs of China Doll (V0)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/BishopFeb038_flat.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, with a last minute send of Last Dance (V9). Photo credit: Jason Morgan</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/BishopFeb045_flat.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, with a last minute send of Standing Kill Order (V10). Photo credit: Jason Morgan</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/BishopFeb027_flat.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai finishing up a flash of Queen Sweet Nectar (V9). Photo credit: Jason Morgan</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/BishopFeb007_flat.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai attempting The Swarm (V13/14). Photo credit: Jason Morgan</figcaption></figure> <p>Thanks for driving, Cody! Thanks for the awesome photos, Jason!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Santa Barbara Rock Gym Competition 2013-03-18T20:39:00+00:00 /posts/2013-03-18-santa-barbara-rock-gym-competition/ <p>The new Santa Barbara Rock Gym hosted a competition this past Saturday, so Emily and I took a break from studying and drove down. They had great climbs and awesome prizes.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2548.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai finishing up a climb. Photo by Emily</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6544.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>I won a rope!</figcaption></figure> <p>Thank you SBRG!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Dogpatch Boulders 2013-05-13T17:43:00+00:00 /posts/2013-05-13-dogpatch-boulders/ <p>On Friday, Alex and I headed into San Francisco to check out the relatively new touchstone gym called Dogpatch Boulders. We met up with Marina, who also happened to be in the city. Dogpatch hosted a comp about a week before, so we all got to jump on the comp routes.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/aaaM.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina working through one of the many arches</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/asdddd.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the barrel boulder</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/ssA.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex doin his thang on a roof</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/sdfds.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Men’s final route #2</figcaption></figure> <p>This gym has a lot to offer with over 14,000 square feet of bouldering. If you haven’t done so already, I suggest you go check it out!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Sender One Grand Opening 2013-06-17T17:22:00+00:00 /posts/2013-06-17-sender-one-grand-opening/ <p>Marina, Jake and I arrived in Santa Ana at 10 am this Saturday with a long but exciting day ahead of us. It was the grand opening of Chris Sharma’s new super-gym, Sender One. There was already a crowd outside, waiting to climb on the futuristic Walltopia features. And with the gym reaching its full capacity by noon, the staff was hard at work with non-stop belay tests and floor monitoring.</p> <p>Everyone took a break to watch Sharma lead two climbs through the sweeping arch and cone.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6645.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sharma, effortlessly climbing a 5.14.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6568.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sharma, climbing on curved walls and LED’s.</figcaption></figure> <p>The Pro Comp kicked off at 7 pm, with a fun new team format. There were three teams of five, with limited amount of time and attempts to rack up as many points as possible.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6932.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The teams.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6875.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Carlo Traversi, on a 5 point problem.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6803.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Paul Robinson, keeping tension on the roof.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6700.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Kevin Jorgenson, keeping his balance.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6909.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ashima Shiraishi, battling the death star.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6935.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Congrats Black Team!</figcaption></figure> <p>If you missed the grand opening, be sure to check this gym out some other time. It is truly one of a kind.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Squamish 2013-07-19T18:19:00+00:00 /posts/2013-07-19-Squamish/ <p>What started out as a daydream in some lecture hall this spring quarter finally materialized. Cody, Jason, Eden and I set out early one morning to drive nearly the entire length of Interstate 5 towards Squamish, British Columbia.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/maps.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The 1,439 mile route from Jason’s house to Squamish.</figcaption></figure> <p>My brother and I were returning to the summer climbing Mecca after three years. The little town of Squamish (Skwxwu7mesh) is located about an hour North of Vancouver, at the end of Howe Sound. The adjacent 1,368 foot granite dome, called the Stawamus Chief, boasts some of the world’s best boulder, sport and trad routes - and great summer weather, or so we hoped!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7189.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Driving. Driving. And more driving.</figcaption></figure> <p>After three days of driving, and short stops in Mt. Shasta, Eugene, Portland, Seattle and Vancouver, we arrived in Squamish, our home for the next 20 days. Unfortunately, we only got one dry day of climbing before a storm came through and held us hostage at the Squamish Adventure Centre. Although we were pretty upset about the weather, it gave us time to recover from injuries. My brother and I had taken several months off due to elbow tendonitis, and Jason had just suffered a (hideous) toe injury.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7197.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, reading in the Adventure Centre with a view of the soaking wet Stawamus Chief.</figcaption></figure> <p>Six days, 15 bottomless coffees and 1,000 pages of reading later, the sun made its much-anticipated appearance, and with it came the rest of our climbing crew. Joe, Sara, Adam and Alex (from Australia) all began to arrive.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7346.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Lucky Dundees (sans Alex) enjoying the usual crashpad siesta.</figcaption></figure> <p>The rest of the trip was thankfully uneventful. We enjoyed the remainder of our days in Squamish climbing boulders, sport and trad as well as eating samosas, breakfast burritos and sweet potato gnocchi.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7294.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, making it look easy on the Squamish classic, Easy in an Easy Chair, V4.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7221.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason, walking up a route on the Burgers and Fries wall.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7411.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Adam placing some gear at the Smoke Bluffs.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7070.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, at full reach on Minor Threat, V6.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7370.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, focusing in on the tiny crimps of Black Slabbath, V7. Photo by Sara Roudebush.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7484.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, trying hard on Black Magic, V13.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7444.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, slapping a sloper on Trad Killer, V4.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7462.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sara, slabbing it up at the Apron Boulders on a sunny morning.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7546.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, climbing high in Paradise Valley on Enchanted, V4.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7327.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, moving through the crux on Golden Boy, V7.</figcaption></figure> <p>¡Gracias a todos los involucrados en este increíble viaje!</p> <p>And as always, thank you Cody for driving.</p> <p>P.S.</p> <p>If you would like to learn the correct pronunciation of Skwxwu7mesh, the indigenous name for Squamish, please visit: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Skwxwu7mesh_Pronunciation.OGG">Skwxwu7mesh_Pronunciation</a></p> Homeward Bound 2013-07-20T22:06:00+00:00 /posts/2013-07-20-homeward-bound/ <p>On the way home from Squamish we drove through central Washington towards Leavenworth, the state’s Bavarian village (or 1.3 square miles of practical joke). We were welcomed by the unpleasant sight of round tourists and the unpleasant sound of old Bavarian music playing from a raised speaker at the center of town. After a quick obligatory bratwurst and beer we headed towards the dusty parking lot that was to be our home.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7725.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Bavarian Style Shoppes of downtown Leavenworth</figcaption></figure> <p>Thankfully, the climbing near Leavenworth is wonderful, and we enjoyed a full day of sends. We returned to our camp dirty and tired, and as we lay down on the pads for an afternoon nap a raincloud snuck up on us and we fled for town. However, we felt rather out of place, and decided to continue south to Oregon through the night.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7748.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason on The Pocket, V4</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7758.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on The Undercling, V5</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7742.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, flashing The Sail, V9. Photo by Cody</figcaption></figure> <p>We awoke in Smith Rock underneath beautiful 500-foot welded tuff spires. However, the oppressive sun was quickly upon us and it tried very hard to stop us from climbing (and nearly succeeded). We got on a total of 4 climbs during our two-day stay, all with wildly different styles of holds and movement.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7790.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Compacted volcanic ash and a river. Nice.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7824.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason, crimping some chicken-head features on Cosmos, 5.10a.</figcaption></figure> <p>We waved goodbye to Smith and headed home, finally. It’s nice to be back in god blessed ‘merica!</p> South Lake Tahoe 2013-07-25T21:12:00+00:00 /posts/2013-07-25-south-lake-tahoe/ <figure><img src="uploads/photo_3%20copy.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Yesterday morning Chris and I left Davis and headed out to South Lake for a day trip. We had our minds set on trying a problem called Ground Control. But since this problem isn’t in the guidebook, we spent a couple of hours searching for it in all the wrong places. We eventually reached out to Noah Kaufman, who got the FA, and he was kind enough to call us and give us good directions.</p> <p>Here are some photos of our battle with Ground Control.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/photo_4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Chris sticking the sloper</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/photo_1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Chris, about to match the crimp rail</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/photo.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sticking the crux move</figcaption></figure> <p>By 4:30 the sun had drained all of our energy and we called it a day - sendless. But we managed to do all of the bottom section, including the crux, so Chris and I plan on heading out next week for another round. Stay tuned.</p> <p>- Eden</p> South Lake Tahoe: Round Two 2013-08-05T21:10:00+00:00 /posts/2013-08-05-south-lake-tahoe-round-two/ <p>Last Tuesday Chris and I headed back up to Ground Control (V11) to give it a second session.</p> <p>This time we headed out early and had a couple of hours to work the problem while it was still (partially) in the shade. We decided to warm up on the top section, but found it difficult. The top still felt cryptic and slopey and we had a hard time committing - especially with only one pad below. After a few attempts and a bit of progress we began giving it goes from the start. By the end of the session I managed to snag the send, and Chris got painfully close. Here are some photos (thanks Chris).</p> <p>Also, if you’re interested in seeing a well-made <a href="http://vimeo.com/16855611">vid</a> of this climb, check out Alex Savage on the 2nd ascent. (<a href="http://vimeo.com/16855611">http://vimeo.com/16855611</a>)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6139.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6141.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6142.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The crux dead-point</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6159.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6164.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6169.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6172.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6176.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The top section</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6146.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>¡Mucho Tiempo!</figcaption></figure> <p>And thanks again Chris for the great photos!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Fall is Here! 2013-10-14T20:17:00+00:00 /posts/2013-10-14-fall-is-here/ <p>Although we still have beach weather in San Luis Obispo, it is October in Bishop and the temps were looking good enough to venture outside for the first trip of the season. Joe, Sara, Sam and I rendezvoused with Cody, Alex and (surprisingly) Adam at the Buttermilks for a mellow weekend on granite.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9198.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, trying to find a hold on Saigon Direct (V9).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9271.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sam, enjoying the view from the Grandpa Peabody.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9258.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, reaching far on Moonraker (V8).</figcaption></figure> <p>We spent most of our time meandering around the main Buttermilks area with one morning spent at the Secrets. The Secrets of the Beehive area is home to some of Bishop’s most inspiring lines. However, we opted out of trying more highballs and enjoyed the unique granite huecos of the Queen Sweet Nectar boulder. The four guys made quick work of Queen Sweet Nectar (V9), while Sara battled some slab on the other side of the boulder. (She also ate all of my dark chocolate covered espresso beans.)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9223.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sara, trusting her footwork.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9288.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A cliché black and white photograph of a mountain.</figcaption></figure> <p>It feels great to be back on rock after not climbing for so long. Seems like my tendons might be making a comeback. Stay classy San Luis Obispo.</p> <p>- Itai</p> The Overlife 2013-12-06T20:04:00+00:00 /posts/2013-12-06-the-overlife/ <p>Last summer, Rich Salamone and his crew filmed a short video featuring my brother and I climbing at Black Mountain, CA. Check out the video, <a href="http://vimeo.com/81134263">The Overlife</a>. Great job guys!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5425.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Overlife</figcaption></figure> <p>Did he fall, or finish the climb?</p> <p>- Itai or Eden?</p> Red Rock, NV 2013-12-18T21:13:00+00:00 /posts/2013-12-18-red-rock-nv/ <p>Finals were over quickly this quarter and I was itching to get outside and climb. I picked up Joe and we met up with Cody for a few days of <s>partying in Las Vegas</s> sandstone bouldering.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9522.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Gambling Capital of the World, nestled away in the desert of southern Nevada.</figcaption></figure> <p>We passed by the tempting signs for Bishop, CA along the 58 but continued on towards Nevada. When we arrived in Red Rock, we set up camp amidst some rowdy neighbors and thieving coyotes before sneaking in a sunset session at the Kraft boulders.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9485.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, climbing the Kraft area classic, The Pearl (V4/5).</figcaption></figure> <p>It was my first trip to the area, and I was excited to explore some sandstone for a change. Joe, who had been to Red Rock just two weeks earlier, guided us around and showed us some of the best climbs the Kraft boulders and the surrounding areas had to offer.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9501.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, on the tricky arêtes of Pork Chop (V2/3).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9506.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, on the same.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9511.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, committing to the throw on Triple Sow Cow (V6).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9539.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, searching for a foot on his send of Scare Tactics (V10).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9541.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, with an impressive flash of Vigilante (V10).</figcaption></figure> <p>After five days on, it was obvious that we needed a rest. We took a rock stacking siesta before getting in the last bit of climbing and heading back to camp for an early bedtime. We got nearly twelve uninterrupted hours of sleep (the coyote struck again,) before making the drive home.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9571.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The rock climber in its natural habitat.</figcaption></figure> <p>Despite our extended trip, we left most of Red Rock unexplored and vowed to return shortly.</p> <p>I’ll be back!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Back in the Milks 2014-02-20T18:58:00+00:00 /posts/2014-02-20-back-in-the-milks/ <figure><img src="uploads/photo_3.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>This past weekend, Chris, Avi and I headed down south for a much needed Bishop adventure. We met up with Marina, Jake, Mike and few others. We arrived early enough on Friday to squeeze out a half day of climbing, during which we all realized that our soft and precious skin wasn’t going to survive the weekend. Nonetheless, we managed to have a very memorable trip with some notable sends!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/photo_5.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption><a href="http://instagram.com/marinasumie">Marina</a> warming up on quintessential Bishop patina</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/bpin.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption><a href="uploads/yukanjahnsen">Jake</a> working on Bowling Pin Sit (V6)</figcaption></figure> <p><img src="uploads/zflute.jpg" alt="Young Mike throwing hard on Zen Flute (V10) and then celebrating the send" loading="lazy">Saturday’s session was cut short by afternoon winds (up to 50mph). We rushed back to our campsite and found our tents scattered some 30 feet away. The winds were persisting, so we quickly dismantled the tents and decided to share a motel room for the night.</p> <p>On Sunday I worked one of my long standing projects, Direction (V13). Unfortunately, I couldn’t send it because (circle all that apply):</p> <p>I’m not in shape / I’m injured / the shoes weren’t right / the temps were awful / the wind / that one dude was coughing while I was trying to send / I forgot to have coffee / my skin / I wasn’t “feeling it” / a dog peed on my draw-string bag (&lt;-- true story)</p> <p>But here’s a photo of me on it anyway</p> <figure><img src="uploads/1958259_10202434359556727_82135171_n.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Photo by Chris Llewellyn (<a href="http://instagram.com/christifiz">@christfiz</a>)</figcaption></figure> <p>Even though Monday was only a half day, it was arguably the most eventful day of our trip. Marina crushed Smooth Shrimp (V6), Avi snagged the classic Fly Boy Arete (V5), Chris sent Buttermilker stand (V12), and I salvaged the trip with a first-go send of Cocktail Sauce (V10). On our way out we even got to see an inspirational send of Footprints (V9) - good job Ethan (and Wes?)!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/photo_4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Cocktail Sauce (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/milk.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Chris on Buttermilker stand (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/photo_6.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ethan Pringle cruising up Footprints (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8643.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Crew</figcaption></figure> <p>This trip helped me realize how excited I am to get back in to climbing after this extended hiatus. Look out for more trips in the near future. Love, peace and chicken grease.</p> <p>- Eden</p> ABS 15 National Championships 2014-02-23T01:41:00+00:00 /posts/2014-02-22-abs-15-national-championships/ <figure><img src="uploads/abs15.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>(click the image for a preview of Nationals)</figcaption></figure> <p>ABS 15 finals are coming up at 6:30 PST. Live stream via <a href="http://lt11.com/">lt11</a> can be found here: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l51KxaPHsEw">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l51KxaPHsEw</a></p> <p>Good luck to the finalists, can’t wait to watch! And good job to all the other competitors as well, its been an inspirational weekend.</p> <p>- Itai</p> The Send: Bouldering Competition 2014-03-09T21:31:00+00:00 /posts/2014-03-09-the-send-bouldering-competition/ <p>I made my way to Slo Op on Friday afternoon to help forerun the problems. It was t-minus 15 hours until the annual Slo Op CCS Competition began. The routes were looking great, and the finalists were in for a surprising dyno!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/thesend.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>the send</figcaption></figure> <p>On Saturday, climbing teams from Cal Poly, Davis, Stanford, Humboldt and Sierra-Nevada drove in to town to compete for the win. Amongst the Stanford crowd was Andy Lamb, fresh off of the ABS Nationals podium. It was a stiff competition with some crazy finals routes!</p> <p>As always, the event was fun and exciting (with lots of beer). Check out the short <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxJ3QNgdRh8">highlight video</a> I made if you missed out or just want to re-live the comp.</p> <p>Disclaimer: This video was not produced by LT11. Please lower your expectations before watching.</p> <p>Thank you Slo Op and volunteers for putting on this awesome event each year!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Spring Break in Cabo 2014-03-28T23:14:00+00:00 /posts/2014-03-28-spring-breakin-cabo/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3133.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Cody, Itai and I headed up to Bishop (ok I lied, whatever) early on Sunday morning. We grabbed a quick breakfast in <s>Independence</s><s>Lone Pine</s> Big Pine (?) and headed straight for the Buttermilks where we met up with Marina, Jake and Chris. Here are a few photos from day uno y dos.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3123.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Chris sending Center Direct (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9891.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai shaking off on a jug after a flash of Cocktail Sauce (V8/10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9901.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai running up a slab on the backside of the Saigon boulder</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3137.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai working a lukewarm slab on the roadside boulders</figcaption></figure> <p>On day 2 we headed up to the classic High Plains Drifter (V7), where the gang (and 17 other dude-man-bros) all had a solid session. Here are a few photos:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9923.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina reaching for the pinch</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9935.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake placing the heel</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9934.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody throwing for the crimp</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3149.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai and Cody taking in the view after back-to-back ascents - choo choo!</figcaption></figure> <p>Cody and Itai left early on day 3, and the rest of us decided to have a half day at the Happys before heading home. I’d be lying to you if I said it was complaint free, but hey, we had fun - right? Here are some pictures that make it seem like we had a chance of sending stuff that day…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3181.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina getting familiar with the moves on Morning Dove White (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3216.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Working out the foot sequence on He Got Game (V11) - PC: Marina Campana</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3157.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>As always, it was wonderful to be outdoors. Can’t be more excited for this upcoming spring season. See you guys out there!</p> <p>P.S. Congrats to Chris for sending The Buttermilker! yaa boooyyyy</p> <p>- Eden</p> Prevent and Treat Climber’s Elbow 2014-04-01T20:42:00+00:00 /posts/2014-04-01-preventand-treat-climbers-elbow/ <p><em>This article only describes the personal experiences and recommendations of a self-proclaimed injured climber dealing with climber’s elbow. If you already suffer from chronic pain or discomfort, consult a physical therapist for a personalized rehabilitation program. This article first appeared on <a href="https://mojagear.com/journal/2014/04/01/got-elbows-a-guide-to-coping-with-climbers-elbow/">mojagear</a>.</em></p> <p>Climbing tends to attract a rather obsessive breed of people. Unfortunately, obsessing over an extremely strenuous activity makes you extremely injury prone. You have most likely noticed that injury is among the more popular topics of conversation at your local crag or gym. Make sure that you can contribute to that conversation with useful tips for injury prevention, instead of a personal list of injuries.</p> <h2>Golfer’s Elbow</h2> <p>Golfer’s elbow is a term describing tendinosis of the medial elbow tendons (also called medial epicondylitis). This is an irritation or deterioration of the tendons connecting to the knob on the lower, inner elbow (See Figure 1). The gradual onset of this chronic injury is a result of microscopic tears that are not allowed to properly heal. A frequent and strenuous climbing schedule may subject your tendons to stress and strain before they are fully recuperated. These micro tears accumulate and grow over weeks or months and eventually turn into full-fledged tendinosis. It may also develop as a result of muscle imbalance in the forearm.</p> <p>At first, the pain is dull and might be mistaken for a slight soreness after a day of climbing. However, if the pain is recurring and is experienced during everyday tasks, you may have tendinosis. The gradual onset and lack of inflammation or swelling makes tendinosis difficult to detect.</p> <h2>Tennis Elbow</h2> <p>Tennis Elbow is a term for tendinosis of the lateral elbow tendons (also called lateral epicondylitis). The symptoms are similar to Golfer’s Elbow but afflict the antagonistic muscles of the forearm on the upper, outer part of the elbow (See Figure 1). Due to the flexor intensive nature of rock climbing, your tensors are relatively underdeveloped. This imbalance is the usual suspect when it comes to tennis elbow.</p> <h2>Tendonitis</h2> <p>Tendonitis is caused from a single strenuous motion and results in inflamed or swollen elbow tendons. Although elbow tendinosis and tendinitis are two separate injuries, they are unfortunately often concurrent ones. Prevented measures for tendinitis include regular icing and moderate use of NSAID (Non-Steroidal Anti-Inflammatory Drugs) to reduce swelling.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/climbers_tennis_golf_elbow.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Areas of pain associated with each tendon injury. Photo source: <a href="http://rpm-therapy.com">rpm-therapy.com</a></figcaption></figure> <h2>Prevention</h2> <p>The one thing that all tendon injuries share is a slow healing rate. Tendons lack the abundant blood flow that our muscles enjoy, and thus require more time to heal and warm up. Tendinosis may leave your tendons functioning at 70 percent for months or even years if not treated properly (Hörst, 2007). Here are a few quick and easy tips for preventing this from ever happening:</p> <h3>Rest</h3> <p>Tendonitis most commonly develops from overuse. Make sure to schedule in rest days to allow proper and full recovery. If you’ve had five ‘high gravity’ days in a row, consider taking a rest. Your body probably needs it.</p> <h3>Take it slow</h3> <p>Gradually ramp up your workouts to give your tendons time to strengthen. Eager climbers often rush into a new hardcore workout routine. This may lead to injury from imbalance because muscles develop faster than tendons.</p> <h3>Stay hydrated</h3> <p>Proper hydration facilitates transport of nutrients to the cells, helps protect tissues from injury, and maintains joint lubrication (Hörst, 2008).</p> <h3>Stretch</h3> <p>Perform both flexor and extensor stretches regularly in order to maintain proper mobility and flexibility in your forearm.</p> <h3>Cardio, cardio, cardio</h3> <p>If you enjoy bouldering, your climbing day probably involves a lot of lounging between sporadic attempts at the project. Since climbing doesn’t always offer a cardio workout, consider running or swimming on your rest days. This will ensure that your tendons get proper blood circulation and will hasten recovery.</p> <h3>Train your antagonistic muscles</h3> <p>When a football player hits the weight room, they focus on muscles that are not used much on the field. This ensures an overall high fitness level, not just in isolated muscle groups. Do the same.</p> <p>There are several exercises that target your medial and lateral elbow tendons and allow for an isolated workout. Keeping them strong will help prevent any imbalance or weakness. Remember to perform these exercises with low resistance.</p> <h3>Reverse Wrist Curls</h3> <p>This exercise targets the lateral elbow tendons. While seated, rest your forearm on your thigh, desk or armchair so that your hand faces palm down and overhangs the knee by several inches. Grip a five to ten pound dumbbell, and begin with a straight wrist position. Curl the dumbbell upward until the hand is fully extended. Hold this top position for one second then lower the dumbbell to the starting position. Attempt 15 to 20 slow repetitions and avoid lowering the dumbbell below horizontal. Remember to rest between sets.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/44047881418129.zh4YhL1ljkfR8lcRakPt_height640.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>reverse wrist curl climber’s elbow</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/44047881418131.ciMfDU3zYBaJiImhWI87_height640.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>reverse wrist curl climber’s elbow</figcaption></figure> <h3>Forearm Pronators</h3> <p>This exercise targets the medial elbow tendons. While seated, rest your forearm on your thigh, desk or armchair with your hand in the palm up position. Firmly grip a hammer (or heavy metal pipe) so that it’s parallel to the floor. Turn your hand inward and lift the hammer to a vertical position. Pause, and then slowly lower back to the starting position. Attempt 15 to 20 slow repetitions and avoid lowering the hammer below horizontal. Remember to rest between sets.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/44047881418127.jfWIPXl4Wbvh0K7ItnD5_height6401.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Forearm Pronator Exercise Climber’s Elbow</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/44047881418124.8yJqH2SM1kYu53p2m1wX_height6401.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Forearm Pronator Exercise Climber’s Elbow</figcaption></figure> <p>“Climber’s Elbow” is the second most common climbing injury according to a poll on <a href="www.nicros.com">Nicros.com</a>. It is easy to misdiagnose, or worse, completely deny elbow tendon injuries. Keep in mind that proper treatment or prevention of tendon injuries is crucial. Stay healthy enough to make climbing a life long passion, not a short-lived phase!</p> Purple Stones 2014-07-28T20:30:00+00:00 /posts/2014-07-28-purple-stones/ <p>Hmmmm, the Purple Stones, where to begin?</p> <p>Last weekend I headed to the Purple Stones with Marina, Jake and Alex. This was our first time exploring this local crag, and we were eager to get outdoors for the day. Little did we know that we were about to have quite an adventure - perhaps one that is more fit for Bilbo Baggins than a group of spoiled LA climbers. The approach begins alongside Topanga Canyon highway, where one is forced to partake in a live game of frogger. Next, you must descend down a long and ominous drainage pipe, which really puts your hobophobia to the test. <s>When</s> If you emerge, you then follow a creek for about 15 minutes, after which you finally reach a cluster of boulders that are purple - yes, purple. In fact, the Purple Stones are hypothesized to be the birthplace of A$AP Rocky. This should come as no surprise, since one of his most famous songs, “<a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KuZ2QZKYj7c">Purple Swag</a>”, very clearly pays homage to this mysterious crag. Anyway, here is a quick photo montage of our day.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/GOPR0631.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Frogger</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/GOPR0636.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Tunnel descent</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/GOPR0640.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Emerging from the tunnel</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/GOPR0649.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>&quot;I said, everything is purple (swag)&quot; - A$AP Rocky, Purple Stones local</figcaption></figure> <p>By the time we reached the actual climbing destination it was fairly late and we were drained. Nonetheless we had a go at some routes. Here are some photos of the climbs we complained about.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/GOPR0661.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/GOPR0662.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex working out the sequence on some piece of rock</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Screen%20shot%202014-07-28%20at%2012.07.55%20PM.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Group sesh on Purple Prow, V8?</figcaption></figure> <p>Roses are red,</p> <p>Violets are blue,</p> <p>These boulders were purple,</p> <p>I bid you adieu</p> <p>- Eden</p> Goodbye San Luis Obispo 2014-08-07T17:25:00+00:00 /posts/2014-08-07-goodbye-san-luis-obispo/ <p>After four amazing years, it is time to say goodbye to San Luis Obispo. Luckily, before I left I got the chance to show my brother around Bishop Peak and re-climb some of my favorites.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0655.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, warming up</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0711.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Try hard face on a sandbagged V3</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0685.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the same</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2971.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The view from the top</figcaption></figure> <p>I know Bishop Peak is not world class climbing, but I forget how spoiled I have been to have some rock 5 minutes from my apartment. I’m going to miss this place.</p> <p>Goodbye San Luis Obispo.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Pine Mountain 2014-10-06T19:03:00+00:00 /posts/2014-10-06-pine-mountain/ <p>Yesterday Marina, Jake and I headed up to Pine Mountain for a much needed escape from the city. Pine Mountain is situated above Ojai, in Reyes Peak - with an elevation of roughly 7,000 feet. It was my first time going to this crag, and I was excited to explore yet another climbing area.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4456.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The drive up</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4387.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Reyes Peak Campgrounds</figcaption></figure> <p>We jumped on a few classics and socialized with the other climbers that were out there. I managed to snag a send of 911 (V8), and unlock all the moves on Whiplash (V11). Hopefully I can return in more optimal temps in order to link the moves.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4404.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake gettin high on a V4?</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4424.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina, finding out that flies and slab don’t mix</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4429.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Flies and slab don’t mix - seriously, don’t swat and slab</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4459.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4460.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me, grunting on Whiplash (PC: Marina)</figcaption></figure> <p>All in all, it was not the most eventful day, and our trip was actually cut short due to the heat and the flies - but mostly the flies. I would spare you the details, but putting up a complaint-free blog is just not my style. So, if you aren’t a fan of melodramatic tangents, feel free to skip the following <s>rant</s> paragraph.</p> <p>There. Were. So. Many. Flies.</p> <p>I mean, if I had a dollar for every fly out there, I’d breach the Forbes 100 list. And these flies were far from docile. In fact, they were closer to masochistic. What makes flies act this way? It was like they all came from broken homes and had “seen some shit”. They meant business and they had strength in numbers. Didn’t they have something better to do than chip away at our mental fortitude? They were determined, like a middle school bully, pushing his victim to the edge of a psychotic breakdown. As hours passed, each buzz became more and more potent. They had an uncanny ability to break you mentally. By the end, it felt like they were flying by my ear and whispering shit about my most personal insecurities. I would try and think about where to place my feet and instead I’d end up dwelling on the fact that I’ll never be able to grow a beard, or that I couldn’t send that one V3 in Squamish last summer. How the hell do these flies know that I’m sensitive about my inability to grow facial hair? Are flies psychic? Seriously, can someone please enlighten me as to what the purpose of a fly is!? Thanks for making us leave early, assholes.</p> <p>- Eden</p> Red Rocks 2014-10-28T20:10:00+00:00 /posts/2014-10-28-red-rocks/ <p>Is it fall yet? In the past I have been able to rely on my usual cues and signs, for example, if Starbucks is serving its seasonal pumpkin spice latte, temps are usually favorable. However, we’re already in late October and fall temps appear to be hanging back like a reluctant child on the first day of school. Don’t worry fall temps, we won’t bite!</p> <p>This past weekend Marina, Jake and I scoped out a warm Red Rocks for the first time. Red Rocks lies about 15 minutes west of Las Vegas, and offers a plethora of climbing. The magnificent sandstone formations and canyons provide a serene refuge from the wilderness that is Las Vegas. The contrast between the city and the surrounding desert is striking. Over the four days of our trip I began to understand the true severity of the juxtaposition.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4492.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>On day one we headed out to the main cluster of boulders in Red Rocks (Kraft Boulders). We warmed up and jumped on some of the area classics. It was a hot day, but we managed to chase shade and get a solid session in. Jake and Marina opened up a couple projects on the popular Monkey Bar boulder, and I snagged sends of Monkey Bar Direct (V8) and Timmy’s Problem (V9).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4508.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina warming up</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4519.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake on Potato Chips (V2), an area classic</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4562.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Monkey Bar Direct (PC: Marina)</figcaption></figure> <p>Day two was just as hot. We started off at the Monkey Bar boulder, where Jake put down the Monkey Bar Traverse (V6/7). After that we headed deeper into the canyon to avoid the sun and explore the Gateway boulders. Foolishly, I wanted to check out Book of Nightmares (V12), an appropriately named climb. I worked the opening moves, but left the rest for later, in case I ever return with <s>more pads</s> a parachute. On the way out of the canyon my flip-flops decided that hiking was not what they signed up for, RIP, but half a role of tape later and they survived one last push out of Red Rocks - before I dumped them in a Walmart trashcan for an upgrade.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4602.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Working on Book of Nightmares (PC: Jake)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4601.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>On day three I wanted to jump on Scare Tactics (V10), and headed there early while it was still in the shade. We ran into another SoCal climbing crew, and I got to work out the sequence with a fellow climber - Aaron. We both put down the crimpy climb in a short session, and then we all headed toward the Monkey Bar boulder to find shade in the overhang. Marina worked out the sequence on Monkey Bar Traverse (V6/7), and Jake sent Monkey Bar Right (V6).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4590.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Gettin’ sideways on Scare Tactics (PC: Marina)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4548.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina working out the sequence on Monkey Bar Traverse</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4545.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake on Monkey Bar Right</figcaption></figure> <p>On the last day we were all pretty sore and tired, but we still had a short session in the shade of the Monkey Bar boulder. After that we headed home for a much needed rest. This was a great trip, and I can’t wait for the temperatures to drop a bit more. I’m glad I finally made it out to Red Rocks, and I’m certain I’ll be back soon.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4488.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>- Eden</p> Bishop, The Opening Trip 2014-11-18T03:06:00+00:00 /posts/2014-11-17-bishop-the-opening-trip/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4757.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>This past weekend I went to Bishop with Jake and Marina. It was pretty cold, and we ended up in the warmer Happy Boulders for the entirety of our trip. The Happys are like cargo pants - they have way too many pockets. But cargo pants are (usually) harmless, while the ironically named Happys completely demolished my fingers. Over the weekend I managed to put 6 holes in my hands, and twice that many in my ego. It happens.</p> <p>Here’s a photo of my hands at the end of the trip.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/swiss-cheese-edited.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Just kidding, if you look really closely you can tell that’s actually a photo of Swiss cheese.</figcaption></figure> <p>The trip didn’t see any noticeable ticks, but we all had a good time figuring out beta and hanging out with friends. Here are some photos of the climbs we worked or sent over the weekend.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4690.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake working out the moves on Every Color You Are (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4715.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Danny on his send of Action Figure (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4793.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina eyeing some pockets on Morning Dove White (V7/8) - PC: Jack Hanes</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4790.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Here I am on Bubba Gets Committed (V10) - PC: Jack Hanes</figcaption></figure> <p>I’m looking forward to next weekend, when I plan to head back to Bishop.</p> <p>See you all out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Bishop: Round II 2014-11-26T05:22:00+00:00 /posts/2014-11-25-bishop-round-ii/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4832.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>I drove up to Bishop this past weekend to meet up with Damien, Jovanna, Marina, Emily and Jake. I was excited for the back-to-back trips, and I was hoping that the weather would hold up.</p> <p>On Saturday, a windy forecast kept me out of the Buttermilks. Instead I went to the Happys to try and deal with some unfinished business from last week. The rest did me good, and I managed to dispatch both Bubba Gets Committed (V10) and Toxic Avenger (V9) in the late morning session. I rested in the early afternoon, while watching Damien take out the classic Every Color You Are (V6), and work the moves of Morning Dove White (V7/8). However my phone/camera was free of charge in the worst way possible, so the first day went sans photo.</p> <p>On Sunday I finally went back to the Milks for the first time since Spring. We started out near the Birthday boulders and worked our way back to the Peabodies. I grabbed a send of Iron Fly (V9) while the crew was working the ultra-classic Iron Man (V4), and also put down Junior’s Achievement (V8) shortly after.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4816.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake latching the last move on Iron Man</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4856.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Iron Fly (PC: Jack Hanes)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4820.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina working Junior’s Achievement while Aaron makes rock art</figcaption></figure> <p>Late in the last day of our trip I decided to jump on my project, Direction (V13). It took me a while to re-learn the beta, but after that I was able to repeatedly make high point on the climb. I fell off the last move around 4 times. So bitter-sweet. This is the best I’ve felt on the project, which is great - but I also fell on the last move, which was agonizingly frustrating.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4854.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the last move… (PC: Jovanna)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/giphy.gif" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>…and moments later</figcaption></figure> <p>As the sun went down we watched Dan Beall give burns on his mega project up the right side of the Grandpa Peabody. Here is a photo of the set up. Good luck Dan, hope it goes soon!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4843.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>I’m sure I’ll be back shortly because I already miss this place.</p> <p>See you out there.</p> <p>- Eden</p> Horse Flats 2015-01-19T16:09:00+00:00 /posts/2015-01-19-horse-flats/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5056.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Cody, Eden, Jovanna and I escaped the Los Angeles concrete jungle in hopes of spending our Saturday in a place with a scenic view. We decided to check out Horse Flats and were not disappointed by the granite boulders of the Angeles National Forest. We tried to get on all of the classics the area had to offer but the heat slowed us down and left us with plenty of climbs to return for. Here are some pictures from the ones we got on</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1198.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, getting high off the deck on the beautiful Thin Face (V2)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1208.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, holding the swing for an impressive flash of Blank Generation (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1272-2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, taking a lap on The Fridge (V2) and enjoying the view</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5109.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai working his way up The Fang (V5)</figcaption></figure> <p>I can’t wait to get back out there with cooler temps and more skin (and with more pads for Sword of Damocles).</p> <p>- Itai</p> ¡ B I S H O P ! 2015-01-28T02:44:00+00:00 /posts/2015-01-27-BISHOP/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5179.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>This past weekend I headed up to Bishop with my brother. We had the pleasure of meeting up and climbing with a solid crew, including Dan, Isaac, Marina and Jake. The weather was nice (?) and the psych was high. (If you need visual proof, here’s a pic of the group posing in front of the Peabody boulders --&gt; <a href="http://i.imgur.com/H5ozEpf.jpg">http://i.imgur.com/H5ozEpf.jpg</a>).</p> <p>This trip I was on a mission to dispatch my old nemesis, Direction (V13), so naturally, it was the first thing I stepped up to. After a few warm up goes, and some beta advice from my brother, I finally managed to put the project down! But since I find it hard to express myself without emojis, here’s something that will help convey what it feels like to send a long standing project (play your favorite jam in the background for an enhanced effect):</p> <figure><img src="uploads/tVHN1.gif" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Seriously though, thanks for the support everybody! Here are a few photos from the send…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5165.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5166.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5167.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5168.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>After the send I took some time off to relax, take photos, and cheer the guys on. Here are Marina and Isaac getting close on their respective projects.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1296.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina holding the swing on High Plain Drifter (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5163.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac reaching for it on The Mystery (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5174.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai running a lap on The Knobs (V5)</figcaption></figure> <p>Later that day we headed out to the Pollen Grains. I hadn’t been out to this area in years and I was excited to jump on some fresh classics. Itai and I managed quick sends of Return of the Jedi (V10), and later joined Dan to work out the moves on Spectre (V13).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1317.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me, high-steppin’ on the immaculate Jedi Mind Tricks (V4)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1340.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake working the same problem</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1347.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me, on Return of the Jedi (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1358.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Dan, on the beautiful Spectre (V13)</figcaption></figure> <p>On Sunday, Itai and I hiked out to the Secrets of the Beehive area to check out The Swarm (V14). We gave the problem a few goes each, and then decided to check out other climbs in the area. I really can’t wait to come back to it with more skin and better crimp strength. The next project?</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5196.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the opening move of The Swarm (V14)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1393.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me, sending Queen’s Sweet Nectar (V9)</figcaption></figure> <p>After our adventure in this outlying area we went back to the main Buttermilks to meet up with the rest of the crew. We ended the day by laying out in the sun and contemplating life’s great mysteries.</p> <p>I can’t wait to get back out there. Let’s keep 2015 rollin’!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Back To Black 2015-02-10T05:02:00+00:00 /posts/2015-02-09-back-to-black/ <p>This past weekend Itai and I headed out to Black Mountain for the first time in a while. We met up with Isaac and a few of his friends, and had a fun day exploring the OK Corral. Isaac was a solid tour guide, and managed to get us all excited about the area even though temperatures were far from ideal.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1420.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Mike Doyle on The Dan Osman Arete (V6)</figcaption></figure> <p>Not long after we climbed the classic Dan Osman Arete I found a short crimp line that hadn’t been done before. It added two hard moves to an existing stand start. The first move is the crux, and it involves a dead-point to a small edge. From the edge you throw to a jug rail, hold the swing, and top out. After a relatively quick, but hard fought session I managed to piece it together for a first ascent! I speculate that it’s in the V10/11 range, but a <s>sandbagging downgrade</s> second opinion would be very welcomed. I decided to name the climb Transitory State, because this winter season has been so absurdly fleeting.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1430.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Working the moves on Transitory State (V10/11?)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/output_zxN2Yr.gif" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A GIF of the first two moves of Transitory State (V10/11?)</figcaption></figure> <p>After the session on the project, we headed down to the lower OK Corral area to scope out more blocs. Isaac’s tour only got better when he showed us the Hueco Wall (V3) and Loh Roof (V8), which were both crowd favorites. Here are some photos from the afternoon session.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1447.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me heading up the immaculate Hueco Wall (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1476.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac eyeing the jug hold on Loh Bo?? (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5312.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai holding the swing on Loh Roof (V8)</figcaption></figure> <p>It’s been a while since I’ve been back to Black, but I’m sure I’ll be up there again very soon. See you guys out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Bishop or Bust 2015-03-04T17:53:00+00:00 /posts/2015-03-04-bishop-or-bust/ <p>Ok. Let’s go.</p> <p>I took Cody up on the offer I had earlier refused, and by the morning we were in the Volvo yelling along to 80’s power ballads on the familiar Hwy 395. Although my finger was sore and the foreboding weather forecast had me feeling skeptical about the amount of climbing I’d get in, Alex and Jason were Bishop bound and I found it hard to miss out on a reunion.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1542.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The crew taking a lunch break with a marvelous backdrop.</figcaption></figure> <p>As Cody and I pulled up to the Buttermilks main area the wind began to pick up and the temperature began to drop. The blue skies were disappearing. We ran laps on some slab before heading over to Fly Boy, where both Cody and Shawn made first go sends of the classic.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1488.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, gaining the upper crimps.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1484.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Shawn, throwing for the lip.</figcaption></figure> <p>Afterwards, we walked over to the Peabody’s to support Alex on his project. He was chasing his life goal of climbing the bold and beautiful Anthony Lamiche line up the face of the monstrous Grandpa Peabody boulder. In the guidebook description of the problem, Wills Young suggests to bring all the crashpads in Bishop, and a wheelchair. We managed to gather about 15 pads, which seems like the bare-bones protection for the line. As the temperature continued to drop, an impressive gathering of strong climbers including Alex, Carlo, Giovanni, Vitaly and team Japan, traded attempts committing high off the deck.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1532.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Giovanni Traversi, pulling past the lip on Evilution Direct (V11).</figcaption></figure> <p>I climbed Evilution to the lip and dropped off. My hands were numb from the cold and I could barely tell whether or not I was on the holds. I resorted to spotting and taking photos rather than trying to finish off the direct line.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1526.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Carlo Traversi, sending one of the proudest lines around.</figcaption></figure> <p>Carlo made a commendable send before the 50-mile an hour gusts of wind, which carried little specks of snow down from Mount Tom, made it nearly impossible to climb.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1518.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex Biale, on the last committing move of his project.</figcaption></figure> <p>After some valiant efforts and unnerving drops, Alex and the rest of the crew had to call it a night. Meanwhile, just to the left of Evilution, Toru Nakajima was making some of the hardest moves in America look like no big deal. After silently sipping some tea, he nearly sent Lucid Dreaming, wearing socks and capris pants. I scraped my jaw off the ground.</p> <p>What a truly humbling and inspiring climbing session.</p> <hr> <p>The next day we climbed some new slabs in the birthday area to warm up before heading over to Solitaire. I sent the classic but had my eyes set on the sit start, which Alex mentioned had broken since he last did it. The consensus is that it now goes at about a grade harder. I figured out the micro-beta, rested and sent.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1559.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, climbing on the granite campus board Solitaire (V8). Photo by Alex Biale.</figcaption></figure> <p>But I know what you’re thinking, uncut video or it didn’t happen. Well, here it is: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4GJtRJm83U">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4GJtRJm83U</a></p> <p>We returned to the main area and climbed a bit more before heading into town for a much deserved burger and beer. The next morning we woke up to a couple inches of snow on the ground and more coming down. It was time to go home.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1577.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>“I think someone knocked over their chalk bag.”</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1580.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex, with his snow capped project in the background.</figcaption></figure> <p>We all left Bishop with unfinished business, but obviously the trip was still a success.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1584.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, demonstrating the benefits of a weekend in the mountains with good friends and good climbing.</figcaption></figure> <p>As always, I can’t wait to go back.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Buttermilks & Druid Stones 2015-03-17T15:20:00+00:00 /posts/2015-03-17-buttermilks-druid-stones/ <p>Cody, Itai and I drove out to Bishop on Friday afternoon for a weekend adventure. We got into the Buttermilks around 7:30 and decided to have a night session before turning in.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1612.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai taking a lap on some beautiful Bishop patina</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1665.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden running a lap on the local secret and rarely climbed Iron Man</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1693.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A long exposure of the night sky</figcaption></figure> <p>The next day we got up early and ran out to Dale’s Camp. We had a long morning session on the immaculate Xavier’s Roof and then got on Green Hornet and Solitaire on the way out. By the time we got back to camp the sun was oppressive and we decided to take a long siesta.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1741.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody working the top moves of Xavier’s Roof (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1770.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the classic Solitaire (V8)</figcaption></figure> <p>Later that day we felt wiped and opted to kill a few hours by running up some easier classics. We also spent a lot of time up on highballs enjoying the view and beautiful, but not climbing friendly, weather.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1785.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on the Green Wall (V2)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1795.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the left arete of the Green Wall</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1811.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai and Cody taking in some sunshine</figcaption></figure> <hr> <p>We woke up on Sunday morning feeling incredibly sore and sunburnt - yet, for some odd reason we decided to brave the Druid Stone hike. I have to say, we were pretty eager to check out this outlying area for the first time, despite what we’d heard about the approach. The Druid boulders are scattered over a mountain ridge that overlooks the valley and the town of Bishop. The approach takes about 45 minutes, and by the end you gain 1,200 feet of elevation. On the way up I was stopping every few minutes in order to <s>avoid keeling over</s> take photos of our progress. Below is a photo I took from about 3/4 of the way up the hike. The arrow should help you find our starting point (my car).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/arrow.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The arrow is pointing at a black pixel which happens to be my car</figcaption></figure> <p>The hike was definitely heinous, but worth the quality of climbs out at the Druids. We spent hours climbing exclusively area classics and enjoying the view.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1825.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai warming up on Fear of the Unknown (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Edited1212.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody topping out on Prostrate to the Higher Mind (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5659a.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Suspenders (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5660a.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on Suspenders (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1839.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on Suspenders (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1862.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on You Can Cry If You Want To (V1)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1915.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the burly Cayla (V7)</figcaption></figure> <p>Although we managed to put a significant dent in our Druid Stones tick list, we vowed to return and finish off the list in cooler temps.</p> <p>Till next time,</p> <p>Eden</p> Las Vegas 2015-03-26T00:15:00+00:00 /posts/2015-03-25-las-vegas/ <p>My brother and I arrived in Red Rock Canyon mid-day, excited and ready to climb, but as we hiked the short approach into Pine Creek Canyon, our enthusiasm was dampened by the heat. We had our eyes set on a short and powerful problem called Siren’s Call, but unfortunately couldn’t manage a send before the 7 o’clock Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area closing time.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1943.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The beautiful Pine Creek Canyon</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1973.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on Siren’s Call, (V11/12)</figcaption></figure> <p>We awoke the next morning and ventured out into the Kraft Boulders in search of a shady climb. We played around on the Monkey Bars boulder before it got too crowded.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1987.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the dynamic climb The Redirect, (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2006.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, warming down on the shady Perfect Poser, (V1)</figcaption></figure> <p>By mid-day the heat was unbearable and we decided to toss in the towel and head to the Las Vegas strip to join a group of friends by a pool. It looks like the end of the season is upon us.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Springtime In The Buttermilks 2015-04-14T06:04:00+00:00 /posts/2015-04-13-springtime-in-the-buttermilks/ <p>The crew rallied from Los Angeles to Bishop for what might be the last trip before fall. Eden, Jovanna and I met up with Marina, Jake and Emily in town for a coffee Saturday morning before heading up the bumpy Buttermilk Road.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2067.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna taking on Hero Roof, (V0)</figcaption></figure> <p>The thin cloud coverage and breeze made climbing bearable despite the hot weekend forecast. After a quick warm-up, we took turns jumping on some of the area classics.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2088.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Emily, nearing the end of the mega-classic Iron Man, (V4)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2077-2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai catching the lip on Iron Fly, (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2094.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai enjoying some sunny slab climbing on Pope’s Problem, (V4)</figcaption></figure> <p>We awoke Sunday morning sore and sunburnt, but more than ready for another day of bouldering. (After a healthy dose of coffee, that is.) Sunday turned out to be hot as hell, which must have discouraged most climbers because we nearly had the Buttermilks to ourselves. A rarity nowadays!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2116.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina, on a surprisingly fun Unnamed, (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2117.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake, on the same climb.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2105.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Danny sending the burly Cave Route, (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2169.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden piecing together The Buttermilker Stand, (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>We managed to escape the noontime sun by playing around in what little shade we could find before struggling up some sun-soaked slabs to end the trip. A great weekend with a great crew! Eden and I even opened up a few new projects that are sure to keep us motivated through the summer (Bishopless) months.</p> <p>Farewell, Bishop. I’ll see you next fall.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Trailside Boulders 2015-05-12T19:17:00+00:00 /posts/2015-05-12-trailside-boulders/ <p>Isaac and Alexandra had plans to show some friends from Flagstaff - Andrew and Jordan - around Black Mountain, and were kind enough to invite me along. However, upon our arrival we discovered that the road was closed due to maintenance and that our initial plan was spoiled.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2235.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The gorgeous view from the Black Mountain trailhead.</figcaption></figure> <p>We settled for the Trailside Boulders instead, and began charging up the approach. It was quite warm already, so I quickly hopped on all the stellar problems the boulder had to offer, including Diamond Zen (V0), Blind Spot (V3), Lip Service Stand (V5) and Trailside Arete (V6) before tackling the sit start, Shoot the Moon (V10). Andrew and I sent it in quick succession but unfortunately the holds went into the sun before Isaac could give it another good send go.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac, on the top out of Lip Service Stand (V5).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2211.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, trying to keep the tension on Shoot the Moon (V10). Photo by Isaac Palatt.</figcaption></figure> <p>After a quick lunch break we ventured further up the trail towards the ridge that housed the stunning Twilight of the Idols (V10), which is thought to be one of the best problems in California for the grade. Although it certainly climbs well and has all the qualities of a 4 star line, the rock quality was a little disappointing. I managed to send in a few goes, after which we began exploring the area for more climbs and potential first ascents.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2230.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, latching the big throw on Twilight of the Idols (V10). Photo by Isaac Palatt.</figcaption></figure> <p>The sun began to sink and we all felt rather exhausted so we started the hike towards the cars and shared a growler before driving down the mountain.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2237.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The winding 243.</figcaption></figure> <p>All in all it was a great (and exclusively open handed) day at Black Mountain. See you out there!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Tramway 2015-05-19T01:39:00+00:00 /posts/2015-05-18-Tramway/ <p>The San Jacinto Mountain range received several inches of snow from a brief and passing storm but the weather forecast now promised blue skies and good climbing temps. Emily, Jake, Cody and I took this opportunity to escape the city and travel up the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway to 8,500 feet and try some quality granite bouldering. We got an early start and were looking forward to the full day ahead.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2256.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Someone spilled a lot of chalk on the ground.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2247.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Emily, warming up on The Terminator (V2).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2257.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake, battling the area classic The Cube (V5).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2267.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, on the stout Left Hand of Darkness (V9).</figcaption></figure> <p>After warming up we all began working our respective projects but came away without sends and plenty of climbs to return for. By the afternoon the temperatures had dropped and so had our energy, so we opted for some easier but scarier climbing.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2296.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake, on the immaculate Emerald City (V0).</figcaption></figure> <p>On our way out (after getting lost for a bit) we couldn’t resist trying just a few more classic lines.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2347.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, on the blocks of Sunshine Daydream (V4). Photo by Cody.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2361.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, preparing for a big throw on Green Hornet (V5).</figcaption></figure> <p>I hadn’t been to Tramway for around 7 or 8 years and I’m hoping it takes me less time than that to get back there. How bout next weekend?</p> <p>- Itai</p> Rainy Day 2015-05-26T18:14:00+00:00 /posts/2015-05-26-rainy-day/ <p>Isaac and I headed up to Black Mt. Saturday morning, optimistic and ready to climb. Unfortunately, we were greeted by 100% humidity and about 10 feet of visibility which dampened our mood. I still managed to climb a great line that Isaac put up called The Last Survivors of the Pleistocene Epoch.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2382.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Trying not to slip off of the wet holds on The Last Survivors…(V7).</figcaption></figure> <p>Find uncut footage of the send on Isaac’s YouTube page.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2384.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Dead trees in the mist. (Is that the title of a Stephen King novel?)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2401.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Trying a dyno on a hard project.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2366.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Condensation</figcaption></figure> <p>It’s hard to get upset about getting rained out considering California is in a severe drought, but we managed. A redemption trip is a must!</p> <p>- Itai</p> The Brickyard 2015-06-03T02:49:00+00:00 /posts/2015-06-02-the-brickyard/ <p>Marina, Jake, Ike and I drove up the coast yesterday for a relaxed half-day at The Brickyard. It has been a while since I have climbed on sandstone, and the large and mostly open-handed features proved more manageable for my sore finger. We jumped on many of the area classics and left feeling tired and more than ready for some Mexican food in town.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2446.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The beautiful view overlooking Santa Barbara.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2449.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ike, on Charlotte’s Web (V3).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2425.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina, on Soot Patrol, (V3).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2435.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jake, on his spite-send of Watch The Doge, (V5).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2467.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina, on a tall and thin face climb.</figcaption></figure> The Brickyard - Round II 2015-07-13T05:51:00+00:00 /posts/2015-07-12-the-brickyard-round-ii/ <p>It was too nice a weekend to stay indoors, so I met up with Eden and Jovanna for a quick day trip to Santa Barbara. We ran through a circuit of the area classics like Watch The Dog and Charlotte’s Web before switching over to more casual slab climbing.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2494.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jump!</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2528.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, on the super fun Smooth Criminal (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2545.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Some dank sandstone formations.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2558.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, questing up some sunny slab.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2576.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna, sending her project of the day.</figcaption></figure> <p>The heat and the flies are a good reminder that fall is still far away. Nevertheless, The Brickyard is always a good time. Till next time!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Tramway 2015-08-27T05:18:00+00:00 /posts/2015-08-26-Tramway/ <p>On Saturday Cody, Itai and I drove out to The Tramway and met up with Isaac, Alexandra and Alex. We were hoping that the recent “drop” in weather would lend for a nice day of climbing outdoors. It had been roughly a month since I got to climb outdoors, and much longer since I had touched granite - so I was very excited for the trip.</p> <p>Before the trip I was itching to jump on Black Mamba (V12) and see if it was a viable summer project. During the day Itai and I managed two separate sessions on it, by the end of which we had completely unlocked the beta and executed every move. Unfortunately we both received flappers/splits in the process and were unable to continue once temps became more favorable. Below is a shot of me staring down the low percentage deadpoint on the Mamba.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2622.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The deadpoint move on Black Mamba (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>After the morning session near the Swing Dance and Blue Flame boulders we headed up the mountain to a cluster of boulders that none of us had been to before. It got recommended to Alex because of a “classic” lowball V5 called How I Wasted Your Time - or something along those lines. Since it was a new place, the crew got to test out some of the other climbs in the area, like the one pictured below.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2658.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody cruising up a V4 with a nice view</figcaption></figure> <p>We finished up in the new area and decided to search for Emerald City. I had never been to this Tramway classic, and I was amazed at the quality of the line. Emerald City climbs up a 25-30 foot slab face, and offers a beautiful panoramic view as a topping out present. Highly recommended.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2694.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai working his way up a V5 just to the right of Emerald City</figcaption></figure> <p>We finished up our day with a goodbye lap on White Flight, another immaculate highball.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2756.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on the last move of White Flight (V3)</figcaption></figure> <p>I had a solid day trip out at Tramway and can’t wait to get back on some granite in the near future. Seriously, granite is like the best. I can’t even.</p> <p>- Eden</p> Black Mountain 2015-09-23T18:01:00+00:00 /posts/2015-09-23-black-mountain/ <p>Cody and I set out Friday night to meet up with Joe, Sara and Jason at Black Mountain. We battled heavy traffic the whole way but eventually made it, ready for a night of sleep. Unfortunately, due to recent rain, the dirt road up to the basin campgrounds was too much for our low clearance vehicles. After a short nap we tried our luck at a different campsite and called it a night.</p> <p>We awoke after very little sleep, so I decided to get the gang on the infamous Big Greeny in hopes of waking everyone up some more. I think it worked.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2785.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, a move away from peeling off the wall.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2777.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, staying composed on the committing last move.</figcaption></figure> <p>After running through the warm-up circuit, I showed everyone some harder moderates including the classics Tour de France and Hopscotch.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2814.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, on a problem I put up several years ago called Captain America.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2820.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, on the elevator door move of Tour de France Sit.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2830.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on Tour de France.</figcaption></figure> <p>Sunday was hot and we were tired but of course we still found the energy to climb. I took the crew out towards the Lion’s Main boulder which I had never been to before. Making committing moves up high in the noon sun was rather draining, and most of the group decided to head home. Cody and I stayed for a few more hours, working some projects and hiking around.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2861-2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jason slabbing it up.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2883-2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, figuring out his beta on Loh Roof.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2863-2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Chalk Heart</figcaption></figure> <p>It was nice to get back out to Black Mountain and play tour guide for a weekend with some good friends. I’m hoping they’ll be back soon (with better temps).</p> <p>- Itai</p> The Creamery 2015-12-21T03:01:00+00:00 /posts/2015-12-20-the-creamery/ <p>This fall, Eden and I made a quick trip out to Santa Barbara. We explored the area known as The Creamery that sits just bellow the Brickyard and Lizard’s Mouth. Our primary goal for the trip was the area test-piece, First Come First Served. This gem of a problem was put up by SB local strong man, Thomas Townsend. Here are some photos from the quick trip:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2913.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, sending First Come First Served (V10).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2946.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A move with a view.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2931.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, topping out the area test-piece.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2960.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, warming down in the sun.</figcaption></figure> Joshua Tree 2015-12-21T04:25:00+00:00 /posts/2015-12-20-joshua-tree/ <p>Over the past few weeks, Eden and I have made some trips out towards the beautiful desert east of Los Angeles. Joshua Tree hosts some impressive granite peaks and boulders with equally impressive views. It’s been great to get out there with friends and explore some of the classics. Here are some pictures from the last few trips:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3020.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, on the small crimps of Vicarious, V10</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3023.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The classic Undertow, V3</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3254.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, laying back the crack.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3260.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, stemming the gem.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3257.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, eyeing the next hold on the tricky Scatterbrain (V6).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3277.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The gang, relaxing and enjoying the view after a day of climbing.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3302.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The morning light on Intersection Rock.</figcaption></figure> <p>It’s always hard to leave this place, no matter how tired and dirty you are at the end of the trip. We all left plenty of climbs undone, so a return trip is a must.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Vegas 2015-12-29T05:11:00+00:00 /posts/2015-12-28-Vegas/ <p>Itai and I headed out to Red Rocks over the holiday break for a nice weekend in the desert. On our first day out we pulled into the Kraft/Gateway parking lot and immediately ran into Vitaly, our climbing friend. The three of us spent the day jumping on various hard problems along the canyon. However, no one whipped out a camera so the lack of progress went undocumented.</p> <p>Unfortunately, the next day was a bit too windy to climb, so Itai and I decided to explore instead. We spent the better half of the morning running around looking for a Paul Robinson climb called “Power Slave”. After some frustrating searching we finally found it, but had to leave it for another trip due to conditions. In the afternoon we headed back to town for a relaxing evening.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7578.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai looking down into the canyon</figcaption></figure> <p>On our third and final day at Red Rocks we ventured out to Black Velvet Canyon with Vitaly. Again, we got to sample some of the area’s classic hard lines. Itai managed sends of The Fountainhead and Natasha’s Highball before we headed back home, but the trip was otherwise fruitless.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3333.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Vitaly checks out the frozen river.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3323.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Natasha’s Highball</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3345.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the The Fountainhead (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3348.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the The Fountainhead (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3354.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sunset</figcaption></figure> J Tree Farewell 2016-01-19T03:24:00+00:00 /posts/2016-01-18-j-tree-farewell/ <p>Bad weather has never deterred us, (though perhaps it should) so Cody and I decided to roll the dice and venture out to Joshua Tree despite the stormy forecast. Thankfully, after a slight morning mist/sprinkle, the clouds around Intersection Rock began to clear. Isaac and Alexandra, who were destined to leave California behind for the 'Rado within days, arrived at the parking lot just minutes behind us. This was sadly their last chance to shred some gnar gnar and skin on the oh so sharp J Tree crystals before moving. <em>Wait, what’s a crystal?</em></p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3409.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Bong in all its glory.</figcaption></figure> <p>After getting our tranquil warm-up sesh dude-man-bro bombed by a large group of climbers, we knew our only option was to pretend we could feel our fingers and hop on the Joshua Tree crimp test-piece, Bittersweet.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3378.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, on a padless send of Bittersweet (V9). Just kidding, this was a photo op.</figcaption></figure> <p>The gang made quick work of the bottom crimpers but encountered some trouble at the lip. After scoping out and chalking up the damp top out holds, I was able to press out the mantle and finish the climb, though not without giving my spotters, Isaac and Cody a mini panic attack. Next, Isaac, who has been determined to improve his finger strength, continued his crimpscapade by flashing the classic Thin Lizzy. Bravo!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3397.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac, locking things down on Thin Lizzy (V8).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3405.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, discovering a new problem just around the corner.</figcaption></figure> <p>To finish off the day, we hiked out to the elusive Scorpion Roof, where Isaac demonstrated his horizontal climbing skillz, though once again the top out caused some nerves. It was getting too cold and too dark for any more burns, plus we had all earned ourselves a burger and beer back in town.</p> <p>I’m glad we squeezed in that last farewell trip. Best of luck to Isaac and Alexandra in their new adventures! California will certainly miss those lightning bolt IP routes.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Potter's Point 2016-01-20T03:55:00+00:00 /posts/2016-01-19-potters-point/ <p>Last weekend I headed out to Potter’s Point with Itai and Cody in order to explore a new area and meet up with Joe. Unfortunately we got lost on the way in, and spent an extra hour in the car fighting off feelings of frustration and motion sickness. After our prolonged tour of the Santa Barbara hills we managed to locate the crag with enough time for a solid half day of climbing.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3436.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The area classic, Debra (V8), turned out to be very enjoyable. The line features fun movement, a committing crux, and a proud topout. Itai and I managed to put it down in a couple of goes, and Cody got agonizingly close.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3439.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody working out the moves on Debra</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3429-2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Debra</figcaption></figure> <p>After our session on Debra, we headed toward The Brute (V9). Joe, Itai, and I were able to snag the stand, and began unlocking the beta for the sit. Unfortunately no one got the send, but I have a feeling we will be back shortly!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3463.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Working The Brute Sit (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>- Eden</p> The Underground 2016-02-13T03:01:00+00:00 /posts/2016-02-12-the-underground/ <p>We awoke after a short sleep in what must have been the last camping spot in the whole park and headed down the dirt road to Queen Mountain pullout. Cody, Eden and I had discussed hiking out to the underground for several months, and today was finally the day. The infamous approach deters most, but we felt up for the challenge and the opportunity to escape the crowds.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7898.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>You’re only half way there.</figcaption></figure> <p>You can spot the giant ravine from about a mile away, an imposing thousand feet of elevation gain and plenty of chances to get lost lay ahead. We followed the cairns as best we could and made it to the secluded plateau of The Underground in just under two hours. We had plenty of great climbs to get on, Dark Matter being the best of the lot.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3509.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on Dark Matter (V9/10).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3540.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai putting down Blood Drive (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7881.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Black Feet (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3486.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the impeccable Nicole Face (V4).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7892.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody and Itai on the warm down slab</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7855.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on a physical V6</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3518.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on a fun moderate at the end of the day.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3529.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the same problem.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3508.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A great view of seemingly endless potential</figcaption></figure> <p>Though we may not be eager to do that hike again, I know we will be back. The climbing there is just too good to pass up.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Bishop 2016-02-18T02:46:00+00:00 /posts/2016-02-17-Bishop/ <p>Though day trips have been a plenty, a full weekend trip had been a long time coming. I have missed those compounding aches, pains and sunburns that only multiple days on can offer. Not to mention stargazing, which I regard as the cure to the common lack of perspective.</p> <p>Cody and I drove through the night and awoke beneath Mount Tom and Basin as Eden and Jovanna hit the road out to Bishop. It was our first trip back in nearly a year, and my fingers were nervous thinking of all of the small abrasive crimps that the milks have to offer. Though it was crowded and warm as hell (is it really February?), we still managed to get on enough climbs to be properly humbled.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3581.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, dunking the “thank god” jug to finish off the amazing Xavier’s Roof (V11).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3607.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, figuring out how Gastonia (V8) got its name.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3616.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Not a bad view from the tent.</figcaption></figure> <p>We thrashed ourselves all weekend on ambitious projects and, as always, have a lot to come back to. It’s always difficult to leave a place of such austere beauty - especially when your car has a flat tire.</p> <p>Till next time, Bishop.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Snowy Tram Trip 2016-05-01T22:42:00+00:00 /posts/2016-05-01-snowy-tram-trip/ <p>I met Alex, Hank and Adam out at the warm up area just off the trail. We planned on a lazy day trip and got a late start. It was still cold in the noon time sun as we made our way to the Dance Floor area to test our fingers on some of the classics. Some snow could still be spotted on the ground from the previous storm.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3802.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Adam, sporting the man-bun on Standing On The Head Of A Dragon, (V4).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3813.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Hank getting some air under his feet on White Flight, (V3).</figcaption></figure> <p>I felt warmed-up and gave Stretch Armstrong a practice lap before attempting the sit down start. Unfortunately on my first send go I ripped out of the last pocket and landed on the pads with nothing but a flapper to show for it. Oh well.</p> <p>We all agreed that our trip was over and drove down to Palm Springs to claim our consolation prize, Margaritas!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Tramway 2016-05-22T02:25:00+00:00 /posts/2016-05-21-Tramway/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0356.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Cody and I headed up to Tramway for the day to escape the city and grab some granite. Below are a few pictures to help sum up the day!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0379.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Standing on the Head of the Dragon</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0400.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody making his way up Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0448.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody working out the moves on Steep Sharma Arete (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0451.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me, dialing in the the upper crux of Black Mamba (V12)</figcaption></figure> Lincoln Woods 2016-06-17T20:40:00+00:00 /posts/2016-06-17-lincoln-woods/ <p>What’s a vacation without climbing?</p> <p>I planned a trip to visit Ike in New York City and of course snuck a quick climbing trip into the itinerary. The crag of choice was Lincoln Woods State Park, a few miles north of Providence. I had heard of the area from Ike over the past few years and have wanted to check it out ever since. What the woods lacked in good temps, they more than made up for in beauty. Lincoln Woods in spring time is not a bad place to spend a day.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3330.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/ike.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The fine grained yet sharp granite put us all in our place as we ran the classic circuit. I’ll have to return to try some of the tough ones.</p> <p>Thanks for playing tour guide, Ike!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Yosemite! 2016-07-27T02:35:00+00:00 /posts/2016-07-26-Yosemite/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0697.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>This past weekend Jovanna and I headed up to Yosemite to camp, hike, climb, and enjoy the outdoors. On Friday we dedicated the first half of the day to sampling the Tuolumne Meadows granite before heading to Lake Tenya to cool off.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0731.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Holding the crux deadpoint on Detached (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0728.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on The Flakes (V1)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0719.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna, enjoying the view after topping out her first outdoor V1</figcaption></figure> <p>Can’t wait to come back here in fall!</p> Mount Whitney 2016-08-03T02:35:00+00:00 /posts/2016-08-02-Mount-Whitney/ <p>After a surreal couple of days in the dust of <a href="https://deserttrip.com/">Desert Trip</a>, Cody and I made the moonlight venture up the hill to Tahquitz. Our short morning out on Coffin Nail (5.8) would both commence and conclude our ‘training’ for an attempt at the East Buttress of Mount Whitney. What could possibly go wrong?</p> <p>A month later, we found ourselves at Whitney Portal, trying to force the rented bear canister into a brimming bag before beginning our trek. We climbed passed the Ebersbacher ledges and pushed on towards the lakes - Lower Boy Scout, Upper Boy Scout, and finally Iceberg. We had spent the night by Lower Boy Scout to acclimate.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3517.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>So close, yet so far</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3526.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The View from Iceberg Lake</figcaption></figure> <p>While I had felt swell on the preceding approach, at the foot of the Buttress I was overcome with altitude sickness. After some quick deliberation, we opted to stash our climbing gear and bailed towards the safer option of the mountaineers route. While I still felt rather ill, we pressed on sluggishly towards the summit. Cody, who had felt the altitude earlier at Upper Boy Scout Lake, was nearly recovered and led the way up the 3rd and 4th class chute to ‘The Notch’. After a short pause for breath, we climbed the remaining 400 feet of 4th and easy 5th to the summit.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3545.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, at the summit</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3546.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself, at the summit</figcaption></figure> <p>At the top, we signed the summit registry and took in the view before making the very long hike down.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3552.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Descending from summit to the notch</figcaption></figure> <p>While we did not complete the original goal of climbing the East Buttress, the adventure was worthwhile. One day - perhaps with the proper training and experience - we will return for our redemption.</p> <p>Till then, we’ll be icing our whole bodies in an attempt to recover.</p> Joshua Tree 2016-12-26T01:26:00+00:00 /posts/2016-12-25-joshua-tree/ <p>Itai and I headed out to Joshua Tree for a quick day trip on Sunday. Our main objective was to find and try out a project located somewhere beyond the Phantom Carter Boulders near the entrance of the park. We ended up spending the vast majority of the day hiking around and feeling completely lost. The boulders were nowhere in sight, and the guidebook was no help.</p> <p>However, during one of our pit stops, I managed to snag a send of Blood Diamond (V10) - a redeeming quality to an otherwise frustrating day. This beautiful problem follows a thin seam from start to finish, and requires some crimp strength and willing tendons. Highly recommended.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me working on Blood Diamond (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The send go…</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/3.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai showing me the beta by repeating the problem ;p</figcaption></figure> <p>With about 45 minutes of daylight left we decided to throw in the towel on finding this incognito “project”, and spent some time messing around on roadside boulders.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/2.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>I guess sometimes it’s more of a hiking trip than a climbing trip, but that’s okay too.</p> <p>- Eden</p> Red Rock Canyon 2016-12-30T21:51:00+00:00 /posts/2016-12-30-red-rock-canyon/ <p>Cody and I returned to Red Rock Canyon for some sandstone bouldering for our new winter time tradition. This seems to be a tradition not just for us, but for about 10,000 other climbers so we started off the trip high above the Kraft area boulders to escape the crowds on Bitch Slap 5. This route is a fantastic power endurance test piece and certainly deserves its three-star rating in the guide book. After working through the beta in my head I pulled off a flash, not a bad start to the trip.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3889.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody working the moves on Bitch Slap 5, (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3897.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody warming up at the crag.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3898.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on the opening moves of Slice n’ Dice, (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3893.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody warming down on the Monkey Bar boulder.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3902.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Americana Exotica (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3912.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Kyra Condie sending Lethal Design (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>We felt pretty worked on our last day but I was still able to muster up the energy to send American Exotica in the heat of the noontime sun. I then worked out all the beta on Lethal Design but will have to return fresh to tick this climb off. I’ll also need to train my endurance.</p> <p>Hope to get out there again soon.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Cold and Windy J Tree 2017-01-28T20:00:00+00:00 /posts/2017-01-28-cold-and-windy-j-tree/ <p>As the title of this post suggests, it was a cold and windy weekend out in the desert. Cody and I arrived at Intersection Rock and were happy to that find Toe Jam and other classic trad lines were empty. We soon discovered why. As if the 30 degree weather was not enough to convince us to climb in our puffies, a not so gentle 40-50 mile wind storm threatened to blow us off the climb.</p> <p>We switched gears and tried out some pebble wrestling at the pig pen boulder in hopes of some protection from the wind. We had no such luck but bumped into a group of old friends from San Luis Obispo.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/16463769_10154951230009547_8303650977913390281_o.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Misery loves company. Belyn battling the end of Pig Pen (V4). PC: Sami Hawkins.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3997.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, earning style points for the drop knee on Chili Sauce (V7).</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4001.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Belyn starting up White Lightning (5.7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4015.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sami on a mock lead of the classic, Sail Away (5.8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/16252072_10154945993234547_331957342315451315_o.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Belyn crushing the test-piece, Heart of Darkness (5.11). PC: Sami Hawkins</figcaption></figure> <p>Despite the alpine like conditions and “why the fuck am I doing this” thought that seemed to permeate the entire weekend, we managed to have lots of fun as always.</p> <p>- Itai</p> The Tree 2017-02-26T03:18:00+00:00 /posts/2017-02-25-the-tree/ <p>We had to take advantage of some dry weather this last weekend, so Itai, Cody and I drove out to Joshua Tree on Friday night for a quick day trip.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1418.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We woke up fairly early on Saturday morning after a cold desert night, and the guys made me warm up by leading my first trad climb. Can’t believe it took nearly 12 years of climbing!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1459.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1464.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We transitioned from rope to bouldering, and spent some time working on Tidal Wave and Scatterbrain (Sit). In true Joshua Tree fashion, I ended up putting a hole in my finger and had to call it a day. We later went on to explore the Echo Rock area and jumped on some new climbs!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1436.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1437.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sticking the crux on Igneous Ambiance (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1448.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai snagging the last move on Mulligan Variation (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1451.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>And Cody, getting agonizingly close…</figcaption></figure> <p>Next time!</p> Happy Bishop 2017-03-07T04:32:00+00:00 /posts/2017-03-06-happy-bishop/ <p>Jovanna and I drove up to Bishop early Saturday morning for a full day at the Happy Boulders. It had been a year since I’d last been to Bishop, and even longer since I climbed at the tablelands. I was excited to be back!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1482.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Mount Tom, draped in snow</figcaption></figure> <p>We spent the morning meandering through the canyon floor and jumping on fun classics.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1485.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna running up Mmm… Nice</figcaption></figure> <p>It started heating up and getting more crowded so we headed up the canyon side so I could jump on He Got Game (V11). After figuring out the beta for the crux sequences exiting the roof, I managed to send!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1503.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The crux sequence on He Got Game (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1489.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Another angle of the same move</figcaption></figure> <p>We continued climbing throughout the afternoon until our skin had us stop.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1495%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna, climbing Paranormal in the West Country (V1) on our way out</figcaption></figure> <p>It was great getting out to the Sierras and I can’t wait to get back!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Slab Saturday at J Tree 2017-03-12T21:27:00+00:00 /posts/2017-03-12-slab-saturday-at-j-tree/ <p>I made the ever familiar drive out to Joshua Tree for the second weekend in a row. There was a promising weather window before a storm rolled in that I had to take advantage of. I met Alex and Chris out at intersection rock for what ended up being a non-stop day of trad climbing.</p> <p>We began our day out at Echo Tee and got our slab fix. We were confronted with plenty of terrifying run-outs, a sure way to test the confidence of even the most experienced climbers. Chris Wegener, who himself put up many of the routes at Joshua Tree in the '70s, demonstrated his friction climbing skills before suggesting that I try the area classic, Heart and Sole.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4065.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The slab master, Chris, showing us how it’s done. Can you spot the second bolt? Neither can I.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/17211915_10155141822199096_2585577538384379766_o.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>On the sharp end for the classic Heart and Sole (5.10a). Photo by Chris Wegener.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/17192346_10155141823424096_8955559923503349275_o.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sunset lap on the Flake. Can you spot Alex?</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/16819221_10155092356289096_5818588970824874555_o.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The desert in all its glory. Photo by Chris Wegener.</figcaption></figure> <p>The view from the top of intersection rock at Sunset is hard to beat. A perfect cap to a full day of great Joshua Tree climbing.</p> <p>Thank you Alex and Chris for showing me around some new climbs!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Milky Milks 2017-03-26T22:11:00+00:00 /posts/2017-03-26-milky-milks/ <p>It shames me to even mention that it had been over a year since I last set my eyes on the beautiful Buttermilk country. Over a year since my fingers got tested by the large crystals of those perfect granite crimps. Cody and I set forth for Bishop early last Friday despite some questionable weather forecasts, and I’m very glad we did. Aside from being a little scared topping out Saigon and Roadside Highball in slight rain when we first arrived, it quickly blew past us and never returned.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/File_000(4).jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, slapping the last big move on Brian’s Project (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/File_000(3).jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sticking the first move on Scenic Crank Low (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>The first day ended with the highlight of sending the rarely done Scenic Crank Low (pictured above) in only three or so attempts. Cody got painfully close to sending Brian’s Project but will have to return to it next time with better temps hopefully. Our finger tips were raw from a full day of climbing so we went in to town for a much deserved burger and beer and to watch some March Madness.</p> <hr> <p>The next day Joe and Sara joined us for yet another full day of great climbing which included a flash of Pope’s Hat and a few sunset laps on the giant Peabody’s aretes.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/File_000(2).jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe topping out Verdad (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/File_001.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, pulling out of the roof and onto the tall finish on the flash of Pope’s Hat (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/File_000(1).jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, starting his long quest up Grandpa Peabody’s East Arete (5.10a)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/File_000.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, nearing the top of East Arete (5.10) as the sun sets on the Milks.</figcaption></figure> <p>My fingers are still recovering from the non-stop bouldering weekend but as always, I can’t wait to go back.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Moe's Valley 2017-03-27T04:01:00+00:00 /posts/2017-03-26-moes-valley/ <p>Jovanna and I headed up to Zion for a short, but much deserved (on her part) vacation. We decided to make a quick pit-stop in Moe’s Valley during our Utah adventure. At first it was tough to navigate due to the fact that we did not have a guidebook, but we managed to find the valley of boulders and enjoyed a full day of climbing. We were not disappointed!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View of the valley</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1595.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A V6 on the Settlers of Catan Boulder</figcaption></figure> <p>After warming up and getting a feel for the area I decided to jump on Show of Hands (V11) - which I had my eye on since before the trip. This beautiful line climbs out of a roof on perfect incut crimps and finishes on a tall slab. I was happy to take this one down!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/show%20of%20hands.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Show of Hands (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>We spent the rest of the day trying out boulder problems and exploring the new area.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1627.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna working the moves on Whelmed (V4)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1633.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Fridge (V4)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1646.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna sending Steamfunk (V2)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1652.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1655.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Spectro (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1659.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Israil Direct (V8)</figcaption></figure> <p>One day was not enough. I can’t wait to be back!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Joshua Tree 2017-04-09T21:05:00+00:00 /posts/2017-04-09-joshua-tree/ <p>Itai and I ran out to Joshua Tree yesterday for a day trip in the desert. When we arrived, the weather was beautiful and the wildflowers were blooming.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1792.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1800.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We started the day at intersection rock, where I got to jump on Yogi (V10), a physical roof problem. Itai showed me the beta by essentially repeating the climb, and I was able to send pretty quickly!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1829.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>On my send of Yogi (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>After that, we decided to check out an area that was new to us - Geology Tour Road. We had fun jumping on new problems and exploring the region.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1822.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai working on Thin Crack (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1834.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the Dripper boulder</figcaption></figure> <p>For our last stop of the day we headed out to Hall of Horrors where we decided to try Nicole Problem (V10) - a crimpy one-move-wonder with the potential for a sit start (has anyone done it?). We spent some time fine tuning the beta, and both sent!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1825.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1826.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Nicole Problem (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1828.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me too!</figcaption></figure> <p>Overall it was a great day out in Joshua Tree despite the heat and the wind. Still so many new areas to explore after years of climbing here. Just goes to show how much there is to do in this park!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Springtime In The Milks 2017-04-16T23:41:00+00:00 /posts/2017-04-16-springtime-in-the-milks/ <p>Eden and I made the easy decision to spend our 22nd birthday (just kidding we’re old) out in Buttermilk country. The weather forecast suggested that it might be the last manageable weekend of the season in terms of temperature. Despite the non-ideal heat, we tested ourselves on some Bishop testpieces and even surprised ourselves with some good links on the thuggy A Scanner Darkly (pictured below).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4259.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A Scanner Darkly (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4226.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden makes quick work of Scenic Crank Low (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4250.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, chalking up on the beautiful Cuban Roll (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4251.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Swarm (V13/14) in all its crimping glory</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4249.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>What remains of Eden’s finger after trying The Swarm.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4263.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Vitaly, topping out a dream (/nightmare) boulder, Evilution Direct (V11).</figcaption></figure> <p>Even though Eden’s flapper put an early end to our weekend, it was capped with Vitaly’s send of his multi-year project, Evilution Direct (pictured above). Exciting to be a witness to it all!</p> <p>Till next season!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Season Opener at the Tram! 2017-05-23T02:57:00+00:00 /posts/2017-05-22-season-opener-at-the-tram/ <p>Itai and I headed up to Tramway on Saturday for the first time in a year. We decided to start the day by jumping on our project - Black Mamba (V12). This line adds a sit start to Stretch Armstrong, a low percentage one-move-wonder V10. We both got agonizingly close, falling on the last move many times. Definitely feels like it’ll go down this summer!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2075.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Screengrab of Itai on Black Mamba (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2064.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the same</figcaption></figure> <p>After working Black Mamba for a while, we headed up the hill to the Icebergs to jump on Greenpeace Sit (V10) and Science Friction (V10). We made quick work of both!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2069.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Greenpeace Sit (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2063.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Science Friction (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>On the way out we stopped by Osama (V10), which Itai gave a few goes on. But by this time we were pretty wiped, so this one will have to wait for next time!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2058.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sticking the opening move on Osama</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2059.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you out there!</p> <p>Eden</p> Squamish (Part I) 2017-08-17T22:11:00+00:00 /posts/2017-08-17-squamish-part-i/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2832.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Itai, Ike and I joined Cody in a smoky Squamish on Sunday, August 6th. The haze, induced by recent forest fires, deprived the surrounding scenery from its usual clarity, depth and colors. Fortunately for us, the magical forest remained unchanged. We spent the first few days running around the grand wall boulders jumping on classics and whatever else caught our eye.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2828.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody getting reacquainted with Squamish slab…</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2810.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ike enjoying a little sun</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2798.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on Swank Stretch</figcaption></figure> <p>By mid-week we had spent a few sessions at Gibb’s cave, where Itai sent Black Hole (V11), and Cody sent Gibb’s Cave (V8) - congrats!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2861.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Black Hole</figcaption></figure> <p>On the crowded days we found refuge in the North Wall Boulders, where we got to explore new areas. Itai and I also began working out the moves on Perfect Cave (V11) which we both eventually sent.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2878.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2899.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody sending The Tugger (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2884.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai putting down The Perfect Cave (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>Jovanna joined us on Thursday and got to see the forest for the first time! :)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3503.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2977.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ike on Detached Flake</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2935.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>It rained Sunday night, which forced a rest day. We decided to hike the Chief since the smoke was clearing out. The views did not disappoint!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2930.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View from the top!</figcaption></figure> <p>Our flight out of Vancouver was scheduled for 8:00pm, which was just enough time for a morning session. I got a goodbye send of The Perfect Cave (V11), and watched Itai float up Resurrection (V9) on his first go.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2970.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2962.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Resurrection (V9)</figcaption></figure> <p>As always, it was hard to leave the forest and I can’t wait to go back! Itai and Cody are still up there, so stay tuned for Part II.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2932.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> Squamish (Part II) 2017-08-25T23:14:00+00:00 /posts/2017-08-25-squamish-part-ii/ <p>Cody and I were left alone in the campsite and relegated to a party of two. We kept up the motivation and made it a goal not to take any rest days and climb as many problems as we could. This involved checking out new areas that we had never been to on previous trips, but first, we spent some time in the familiar grand wall area and filled all the unchecked boxes in our guidebook.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender%209.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, balancing on the stellar Old and Serious, V3</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4787.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, taking down the nemesis climb It’s About Time, V5</figcaption></figure> <p>Next up was Murrin Park, just a few minutes south of Squamish. Both Cody and I ticked off several 4 and 5 star lines. I put down the area test piece after a short sport climbing break.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4741.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Squeezing hard on The Summoning, V12</figcaption></figure> <p>Though we had both spent some time in the north wall areas earlier in the trip, we still had plenty new climbs to check out. On my last day in the forest, we got out to the newly developed Lost World. Though we got lost trying to find it, the thrashing was worth it. I even managed a surprising send of the area test piece despite the sore muscles and split tips. A great note to end the amazing trip on.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4756.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Making the long reach on Tyler’s Dihedral, V3</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4764.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody, warming up in The Farm area</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4774.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on The Land That Time Forgot, V?</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4789.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Holding the swing on The Squaminator, V12</figcaption></figure> <p>Feels strange to be back home in the city and out of the beautiful forest. Hopefully knowing that fall is right around the corner will propel our motivation through the last bit of summer heat in California. For now, we’ll be escaping the heat out in the higher elevations of Tramway, Black and perhaps RMNP.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Eastern Sierras 2017-09-06T04:49:00+00:00 /posts/2017-09-05-eastern-sierras/ <p>Jovanna and I headed up to Mammoth Lakes on Friday to enjoy the long (Labor Day) weekend in the Eastern Sierras. We arrived about mid day and hiked up to the beautiful Crystal Lake.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3015.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>The next day we drove out to Tuolumne Meadows and had a great day enjoying the lakes, rivers and climbing. We started out by venturing up to the Ridge-top boulders to check out Space and Time (V10) - a 3-star crimp line. Unfortunately we got slightly lost along the way, and even though the guide suggested the approach would take 25 minutes, it took close to an hour and a half to find it. By that time it was midday and the sun was beating down. Still worth it! The line climbed well and I was able to send!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3027.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna running laps on a nice slab :)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3043.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Space and Time (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3061.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Giant tree we found on our way down - Jovanna for scale</figcaption></figure> <p>After the morning session we had lunch at Tenya lake, and explored the Tuolumne River…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3097.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>When it cooled down a bit we decided to make one last stop at Dana Meadows before leaving the park. Dana Meadows doesn’t have many boulders, but it’s home to One Love (V12), which I wanted to check out. The line fit my style perfectly and I was able to send it before sunset!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3077.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on One Love (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3078.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Leaving Dana Meadows</figcaption></figure> <p>The next day we stayed “local” and ran up to Way Lake in Mammoth. It was my first time there and I was excited to check it out. Unfortunately the lower areas were teeming with mosquitos and so we decided to approach the less marshy Meadow Boulders from an alternate route (for those familiar with the area). This lead to a long and arduous search. Eventually we found a few of the boulders, but by then we had very little time and energy left. We departed Way Lake with zero notable sends and over 30 collective mosquito bites… but I’m sure I’ll be back ;)</p> <p>- Eden</p> Rocky Mountain National Park 2017-09-16T19:46:00+00:00 /posts/2017-09-16-rocky-mountain-national-park/ <p>Our trip to Colorado was moments away from being canceled due to suspect weather but our restlessness got the best of us. What’s the worst that could happen? Even if we got rained out every day, sitting in a cabin in Estes Park sounded far more pleasant than sitting in traffic in Los Angeles.</p> <p>Off we were from sea level to the mile high city and beyond. The hike to Lower Chaos Canyon in the park is a steady 30 to 45 minutes of well-maintained trail hiking out of the Bear Lake parking lot. The scenery along the way is simply breathtaking, or is that the altitude?</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender%2014.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Views.</figcaption></figure> <p>The climbing itself sits a few minutes off a social trail in a talus field surrounding Lake Haiyaha. (How the hell do you pronounce that?) The alpine setting makes the weather variable and unpredictable and during summer time very thunderstorm prone. It stayed warm (too warm) and relatively dry enough for us to get at least a few hours of climbing in each day before being rained out and soaked to the bone on the hike down.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender%2010.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Lake Haiyaha</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4814.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Running Scared, (V11).</figcaption></figure> <p>The hike to Upper Chaos on the far side of the lake requires an additional 30 minutes of hiking on social trails and talus fields but is certainly worth it. Even though we were able to climb, the weather was far from ideal so we spent our time in Upper Chaos chasing shade and keeping an eye/ear out for thunderstorms. Our choice for climbs was limited by the lack of pads but we made due with a long day of hard lowballs. Check out the videos page for Eden’s send of Friday the 13th (V10). We finished off the session with the stand start to the iconic crimp testpiece, Jade. It was both humbling and inspiring to see the climb in person after watching countless videos of it over the years.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender%2013.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden, flipping through the guidebook in Upper Chaos.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4876.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the stand start to Jade, called Green 45 Stand (V10).</figcaption></figure> <p>We got some momentary relief from the smooth and frustrating gneiss rock in Chaos Canyon by hiking out to the Tommy Caldwell classic called Lonestar or Stinkbug.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender%2010%20copy.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on the last move of Stinkbug (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4913.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, on the same.</figcaption></figure> <p>Upon realizing that it was too hot during the day to climb any of the hard lines we had our eyes set on, we purchased some lanterns in town and readied for a night session on our last day. I was able to send the annoying technical testpiece of the park, Nuthin’ But Sunshine and Eden came agonizingly close to sending too.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4932.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, on the last hard move of Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)</figcaption></figure> <p>Unfortunately, our time was up but we had a blast and are already thinking of returning in spring or summer. It is practically fall now so we have plenty of projects back in California to occupy our minds until then.</p> <p>- Itai</p> September Sends 2017-09-25T02:59:00+00:00 /posts/2017-09-24-september-sends/ <p>A cold streak appeared on the forecast and beckoned us towards the Sierras. It was the last weekend of our seemingly endless summer and a Bishop trip would surely serve as a grand finale. Cody and I met Eden and Jovanna early Friday morning and made the familiar drive north on the 395. It was officially the first day of fall and felt like it when we exited the car for breakfast. Good climbing temperatures in September have been a bit of a rarity over the years but this was a welcome change. We warmed up in the Buttermilk main area and came away with some new climbs.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4970.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Eden on Pope’s Hat (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4982.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Stained Glass (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>We then made our way over to The Mandala, an iconic Chris Sharma line that had thwarted me for years (Eden had sent the climb nearly a decade before). How iconic is this line? Well, it has its own <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Mandala">Wikipedia page</a>. I managed to put it down on my second go this trip. Jovanna sent both Hero Roof and the committing Sunshine Slab.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FullSizeRender%2011.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on The Mandala (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>The next morning the group hiked out to the Secrets of the Beehive area where Cody made quick work of the intimidating Queen Sweet Nectar (V9). After a short warm up, my brother and I began to work the moves on the lifelong dream climb called The Swarm. It has been Bishop’s hard crimp testpiece since it was first climbed. After trying the top moves of the climb for the first time I was able to connect it all from the bottom and found myself topping out. Looks like all of that hard work paid off! Eden fell past the crux (and second crux) four times in a row but was too tired to finish it this trip. It will surely go next time!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5001.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Swarm (V13/14)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4999.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>An evening lap on the Peabody is a must.</figcaption></figure> <p>I’m sure we will be back to Bishop shortly!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Black Mamba 2017-10-08T23:17:00+00:00 /posts/2017-10-08-black-mamba/ <p>Eden, Marina and I headed out to Tramway with the objective of putting down Black Mamba. This Tramway crimping testpiece was originally done by Dan Mills many years ago and given the grade of V13, though consensus has settled at hard end V12 since then. The redpoint crux of the climb revolves around a low percentage dynamic move to a slot and can be very frustrating to work. The day was unseasonably warm, but after a tremendous amount of complaining, the project went. The uncut video of the send can be found at <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AONWzyMw2Dg">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AONWzyMw2Dg</a>.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5028.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Views from the ride up the mountain.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5062.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Mood</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5226.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A screengrab from the send video of Black Mamba (V12).</figcaption></figure> Bishop with Fall Weather! 2017-11-13T19:55:00+00:00 /posts/2017-11-13-bishop-with-fall-weather/ <p>Itai, Marina and I took advantage of the long weekend and headed out to Bishop on Friday morning. The weather was crisp and cold and it finally began to feel like real fall weather - psych was high! Following the morning ritual of grabbing coffee in town, we drove straight to my project (where we met up with Pete).</p> <p>I warmed up to the best of my ability and decided it was time to get on it. My first go went alright. I fell on the second move. It was a warm-up burn. I took a 5-10 minute break and hopped back on. I stuck the second move and knew it was time to capitalize. I moved through the upper section with beta I had never tried before… but when it works, it works!</p> <p>I can’t really put in to words how excited I am to finish this one up! This send means the world to me, and I’m sure my brother feels the same way (about his). We had our eyes set on The Swarm since last April when we knew we would have some free time this summer for training. In late spring we reached out to Taylor, our climbing mentor (from back in the day ;p) and worked together to figure out some specific training that would benefit us most. Then we got to work. I had no idea what to expect as far as results go. So happy with this one. And a huge thank you to everyone who helped and supported along the way!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3452.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me sending The Swarm (V13/14)!</figcaption></figure> <p>After my midday session on The Swarm (V13/14) we headed down the hill to the Get Carter boulder so Itai could jump on one of his last remaining projects in the milks - <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4l7sESO9nLM">A Scanner Darkly (V12)</a>. He put up a fight and eventually put it down!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/Screen%20Shot%202017-11-19%20at%208.07.04%20PM.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending A Scanner Darkly (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>We spent the next morning in the Buttermilks main area and met up with Cody and Wynne. Marina got to jump on her long standing project High Plains Drifter (V7) - and she got super close! After that we ran out to the Bardini boulders where Itai got on A Maze of Death (V12) and managed to figure out his beta and get really close to sending. I’m sure it’ll go next trip!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3484.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina working on her project - High Plains Drifter (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3459.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on Knobs (V5)</figcaption></figure> <p>On Sunday we only had a half day, and spent it in the main Buttermilk area. Marina continued working on her project and Itai and I were able to make quick work of La Belette (V11) with the help of Pete’s beta.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3474.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on La Belette (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>See you guys out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Black Friday @ Tramway 2017-11-25T19:50:00+00:00 /posts/2017-11-25-black-friday-tramway/ <p>Yesterday Norm and I headed up to Tramway to get outdoors and escape the record-breaking heat.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3553.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We began our day by warming up and then heading to my project Black Mamba (V12). It started off well, but I tweaked my shoulder on one of the goes and decided to take a break and come back later. After that, we went looking for Barefoot Sharma Arete (V8), which took an embarrassingly long time considering we had the guide. But once we found our bearings we jumped on a few new and enjoyable climbs!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3528.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Norm taking a lap on a crimpy V5/6</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3550.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Norm getting agonizingly close on Barefoot Sharma Arete (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3572.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me sending Chad’s Dyno (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>It was getting later and we decided to start heading out and back to the tram. But before that, we made a pit stop at the project and I sent it!! So happy to finally put this one down.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3571.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sending Black Mamba (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>- Eden</p> Joshua Tree Getaway! 2017-12-16T23:51:00+00:00 /posts/2017-12-16-joshua-tree-getaway/ <p>Quick, impulsive trips to Joshua Tree never get old. Here are some pictures from the latest one. Enjoy!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5264.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ollie on Muligan 2</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5273.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The length reach on Kandahar</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5404.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Slab Life</figcaption></figure> First Bishop Trip of 2018 2018-01-18T02:02:00+00:00 /posts/2018-01-17-first-bishop-trip-of-2018/ <p>Marina, Itai, and I took advantage of a three day weekend and drove out to Bishop early Saturday morning. We set up camp and got to climbing!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5440.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We started off at Marina’s project, High Plains Drifter (V7) where she quickly got her high point.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5405.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina working High Plains Drifter (V7)</figcaption></figure> <p>After the midday session we headed out to the Bardini Boulders so Itai could revisit A Maze of Death (V12). After getting reacquainted with the movement he was able to grab the send!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/7650975184_IMG_3825.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending A Maze of Death (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>On Sunday morning we headed back to High Plains Drifter where Marina continued to work out the moves. After the morning session we trekked up to the Druid Stones / Waganoobe area where we all got to try some new movement! Itai and I were able to make quick work of Gasperini (V12), and Marina sent Suspenders (V5) and nearly got Sky Dance (V6).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3851.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Druid hike…</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3864.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Marina sending Suspenders (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/7650975184_IMG_4073.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me sending Gasperini (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5482.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai Sending Gasperini (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>Monday morning we all felt wrecked and decided to head back home on the early side. It was a wonderful way to start 2018 and I can’t wait for the next trip out!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/7650975184_IMG_4106.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you out there,</p> <p>Eden</p> Joshua Tree Winter 2018-01-29T00:13:00+00:00 /posts/2018-01-28-joshua-tree-winter/ <p>Cody and I drove out to Joshua Tree late Friday night to meet up with Joe and Sara. We had a wonderful weekend catching up with friends and mixing it up between bouldering and trad climbing.</p> <p>The crew collectively had a very successful weekend out in the windy desert, I even managed to put down my nemesis rig, <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=53HaeHYwFNo">Scatterbrain &amp; Co. (V12)</a>.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5536.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe on the heady Satellite Left</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5500.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe leading O’Kelly’s Crack</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5509.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody sending Nicole Overhang</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5516.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Taking in some sun</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5540.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A direct entrance to the new addition, Iron Curtain</figcaption></figure> Back to Bish 2018-01-30T00:47:00+00:00 /posts/2018-01-29-back-to-bish/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3934.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Jovanna, Marina and I rallied out to Bishop early Saturday morning to squeeze out another trip before school and work pick up. We started our trip in the tablelands where Jovanna conquered three V3s and opened up a few new projects!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3926.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna sending Carrot Top (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3932.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna sending Pirate Booty (V3)</figcaption></figure> <p>We finished up in the tablelands by late afternoon and decided to make a quick run out to the Buttermilks so I could try out Social Distortion (V12/13)… thanks crew :)</p> <p>The climb consists of around 4 moves and is a stand-start drop-off, which sounds far from appealing. But it resides on the Grandpa Peabody which is hard to beat! The straight forward crimp line turned out to be very much my style and I was able to send it in 5 attempts! Again, thank you to Marina for capturing photos, and Jovanna for getting the vid (see Videos tab).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3944.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me sending Social Distortion (V12/13)</figcaption></figure> <p>We spent Sunday exclusively in the Buttermilks before surrendering to the heat and heading home. We started our day at High Plains Drifter (V7), where Marina got to put in some solid work on her project. We then headed down to Grandma Peabody where I tried my hand at the Mystery (V12). I worked out all the moves but couldn’t link it together this time. After that, Jovanna got to jump on some milks classics.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3946.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Polish climber friend topping out Pope’s Prow in the heat</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3970.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna getting really close on King Tut (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3971.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Flailing on Mystery (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3956.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna with a balancing act on Robinson’s Rubber Tester</figcaption></figure> <p>I wonder if actual winter temps and conditions will ever come this year? I hope so!</p> <p>See you out there,</p> <p>- Eden</p> Black: Revisited 2018-02-04T23:59:00+00:00 /posts/2018-02-04-black-revisited/ <p>I seem to have forgotten how good Black Mountain is. The rock quality is usually amazing, the climbing movement is always fun, and the views are breathtaking. What more can you ask for? I have enjoyed a couple of really good days the past few weekends, including a triple double of Man is a Bastard (V10), Teahupoo (V11/12), and Howl’s Moving Castle (V12) which I almost flashed.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5394.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joel on Brut Us (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5549.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself on Brut Us (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5591.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself on Teahupoo (V11/12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5593.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself on Howl’s Moving Castle (V12)</figcaption></figure> Red Rocks 2018! 2018-02-22T00:38:00+00:00 /posts/2018-02-21-red-rocks-2018/ <p>We rallied a big crew (Me, Itai, Jovanna, Cody and Wynne) out to Red Rocks for a long weekend of climbing. We spent the first day running around the Kraft Boulders and Gateway Canyon. It was sunny, and warmer than we expected - but we made the best of it!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4088.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the classic Plumber’s Crack</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4090.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody working on Slice N’ Dice (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4125.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Fear of a Black Hat (V9) at sunset</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4121.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai taking a lap on the right side of the cube</figcaption></figure> <p>There was a high wind warning in the weather forecast for the second day, but it was only supposed to pick up around noon. Luckily, Itai was able to send Meadowlark Lemon Stand (V12/13) before it got too bad! This climb was one of my goals for the trip, so I knew I’d be back the next day for a final shot at getting it.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4134.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Meadowlark Lemon Stand (V12/13)</figcaption></figure> <p>A cold front was supposed to roll in on Monday, and it was much much colder than the previous two days. Also, the wind wasn’t quite as strong. We were thankful! Itai and I ran out to Meadowlark Lemon Stand (V12/13) so I could try and finish it up. I rehearsed the top moves a few times and started working it from the bottom. It took some fighting, but I was finally able to get it done!</p> <p>After that, we decided to stop at Power Slave (V12) on our way back out to Kraft. It fit our strength and style perfectly and we both managed to make quick work of it. We spent the rest of the afternoon in Kraft jumping and working on classic lines!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/Meadowlark%20Lemon.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Meadowlark Lemon Stand (V12/13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4160.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Power Slave (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4171.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna working The Pearl (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4127.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A Kraft Sunset</figcaption></figure> <p>See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Joe's Valley 2018-04-02T06:55:00+00:00 /posts/2018-04-01-joes-valley/ <p>I spent what in all likelihood will be my last spring break in Joe’s Valley. Dusty, chossy, beautiful Joe’s Valley! A far cry from the sunny beaches of Cabo San Lucas. Anyway, here are some photos from the trip.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/FC76620C-72F1-4962-8D77-56FA77D4A5DF.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The snowy approach to Dairy Queen Canyon.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/2CC7AFA2-79BE-4574-B005-8FA89A1FB5D4.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself, on the stellar Superman, V10</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/CA191603-3AA6-4700-8E69-BC6BE1BF8A6B.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Nate dog on the same Superman.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/23C42AA7-4560-4EDC-84EE-B7BBDB608261.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>“Enjoying” a camp meal after a hard day’s work out in the boulders.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/758DCBD6-4962-4EAF-9F8B-8A2E96023BA1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Kayla, navigating a tricky river crossing.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/A87ABA34-9F69-41C2-B4D9-37C41C44C78E.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Kayla on Vertical Ice (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/CA48555E-6278-4182-A5E9-82E4381B3E1E.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sara topping out the Scary Monsters boulder</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/D56ED765-9D6E-4A2F-8800-773937580A8D.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Yet another climb on the Scary Monsters boulder</figcaption></figure> <p>On the last day, I grabbed a quick send of Pagan Poetry (V11), Beyond Life Sit (V12), and Blackout (V13) for a send off triple double. Check out the video from the trip for more - <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rt1nZMkSDnQ">Joe’s Valley Bouldering</a>.</p> <p>Till next time!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Birthday at Black! 2018-04-16T22:10:00+00:00 /posts/2018-04-16-birthday-at-black/ <p>Itai and I decided to spend part of our birthday weekend up at Black Mountain. We drove up early on Friday and quickly got started!</p> <p>Our first stop of the day was Bang On (V12) - one of the area’s iconic hard lines. The climb features a large and low percentage opening move, which is then followed by a few big moves on crimps to a jug finish. It doesn’t get much better than this, and Itai and I were excited to get it done. After that, we headed up the hill to try out Adamantium (V10), which we both managed to dispatch on our first go.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3882%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Bang On (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3892%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sending Adamantium (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>After that, we searched for a problem called Glow Worm (V12). This line was showed to us many years ago by our climbing friend Isaac, back when it was still a project and had not been climbed. Since then, Paul Robinson claimed the FA. We were excited to check it out after so many years. We worked out the beta and Itai was able to send it! I’ll have to go back after I rest and my skin heals :)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3902.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai sticking the finish jug on Glow Worm (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>We finished the day with an afternoon session on the Captain’s Junk boulder, where we climbed Dream Tiger (V8/9) and Der Kapitan (V12). These lines have it all, with an obvious jug start, powerful roof climbing, and tall, technical top outs.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3908.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the roof section of Der Kapitan (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Screen%20Shot%202018-04-16%20at%203.08.23%20PM.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Screenshot of the finish…</figcaption></figure> <p>We woke up the next day and didn’t possess the energy or the skin to climb much more. We called it early and left the mountain around noon. Couldn’t have asked for a better birthday trip. I’m looking forward to my next trip out there!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4597.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> Podcast with Coach Taylor 2018-04-17T21:02:00+00:00 /posts/2018-04-17-podcast-with-coach-taylor/ <p>Our old coach, Taylor Reed discussing the coach / climber dynamic. He gave us a shout out for sending The Swarm :)</p> <p>Have a listen at <a href="https://powercompanyclimbing.podbean.com/e/ep-90-the-coachclimber-dynamic-with-taylor-reed-and-bella-jariel/">powercompanyclimbing.podbean.com</a></p> <figure><img src="https://powercompanyclimbing.podbean.com/mf/web/st86ur/thepowercompanypodcastbannersmall.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Power Company Podcast</figcaption></figure> One More Weekend at Black 2018-04-30T03:30:00+00:00 /posts/2018-04-29-one-more-weekend-at-black/ <p>Drew, Kody, Itai and I met up Saturday morning to start off a weekend at Black. Our first day was filled with exploration - hiking, scoping, cleaning, and some climbing.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4029%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>We began by looking at a left start/entrance to a great moderate that our friend Isaac had put up a few years ago called “The Last Survivors of the Pleistocene Epoch”. The new line follows a blunt arete and joins the same finish jugs. By the end of the session the whole team managed to send! We suspect that these were the 1st through 4th ascents, but we’re still waiting on confirmation.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3911%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the climb</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3934%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Drew on the same</figcaption></figure> <p>After that we went searching for another line in the area (Christmas Nights in Tokyo). It’s tall and difficult, but the team did a solid job of figuring out the bottom moves. It should go next time when we have just a few more pads.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3955%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Drew on Christmas Nights in Tokyo</figcaption></figure> <p>We did some more exploring as the sun set, and even snuck in a night session before heading to bed. It was a long day!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4671.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4679.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <hr> <p>The next day we drove to an outer area of Black Mountain appropriately dubbed “Deep Black”. We hopped on a few of the classics and even explored some more. Highlights of the day included Ghost Dog (V7) and Beowulf (V11) - which Itai impressively flashed! But by mid day we felt exhausted and our skin could take no more, so we packed up and headed home.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3971%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Ghost Dog (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3993%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Ghost Dog (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4024%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the roof section of Beowulf (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4008%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai (flashing) the mega-classic Beowulf (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>This may be our last trip out for a little, since it’s getting hotter and midterms are approaching - but who knows! See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Birthday in J Tree! 2018-05-14T05:30:00+00:00 /posts/2018-05-13-birthday-in-j-tree/ <p>Jovanna and I drove out to Joshua Tree for a nice weekend getaway and to celebrate her birthday. We spent Saturday climbing, and while it was hot, we had a great time exploring and climbing in the park. Here are a few photos from the day!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4042.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Thin Lizzy (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4051.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna on Thingamajig (V0)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4054.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna taking a lap on Chunkers (V0)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4060.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna enjoying the slab on a roadside boulder</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4076.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Lip Service (V2)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4078.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> Tuolumne Meadows Bouldering 2018-07-10T15:36:00+00:00 /posts/2018-07-10-tuolumne-meadows-bouldering/ <p>While I had been to Tuolumne before, I had strangely never climbed there. I finally got the chance to make a quick and successful trip up to The Meadows this summer. Most of the weekend was spent relaxing by swim holes and avoiding mosquitos, though I did get serious and came away with a flash of Galaxy 5000 (V10), Out of Your League (V11), One Love (V12), and High Lonesome Rambler (V12).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6349.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Morning fog on the lake</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/20180706_185335.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Victory Apple</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/20180705_155325.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Out of Your League (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>See Eden’s video for his send of One Love <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHJ1KIYwyWY">and more</a>.</p> <p>Till next time!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Rock Creek 2018-08-11T15:21:00+00:00 /posts/2018-08-11-rock-creek/ <p>Rock Creek is a magical little place. Though the developed bouldering is limited and terribly sandbagged, the quality and the picturesque setting make it a worthwhile trip.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0712-1%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai, sending Compression Sessions (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0711.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joe, demonstrating the beta</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0708-1.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Mood</figcaption></figure> <p>- Itai</p> Baggin' Peaks 2018-08-14T14:39:00+00:00 /posts/2018-08-14-baggin-peaks/ <p>When it’s too hot to boulder, we boulder anyway, but sometimes we retreat into the high Sierra instead.</p> <p>Here are some uncharacteristic pictures of scenery, hiking, traditional climbing, and even some alpine adventures from the summer.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6373.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A Sierra Nevada sunset</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6084.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Taking in the view on pitch two of The Trough on Tahquitz Rock</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6200.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alpine start for Lone Pine Peak (upper left)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6216.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Summit of Crystal Crag via Crystal Corridor</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6222.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The downclimb to Crystal Crag</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6392.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Gem Lake on the approach trail to Bear Creek Spire</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6397.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The final push towards the Bear Creek Spire summit via The Northeast Ridge</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6395.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Views down the valley from the Spire</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6406.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The beautiful but mosquito infested (not pictured) hike out</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6408.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The massif (with Bear Creek Spire farthest back and left)</figcaption></figure> Idyllwild Campgrounds 2018-08-21T02:17:00+00:00 /posts/2018-08-20-idyllwild-campgrounds/ <p>On Saturday I drove out with Jovanna to meet up with Joey, Rachel, Cody, Itai, and Kayla for a day in the mountains. It was Joey’s first outdoor bouldering experience and we made sure to show him a good time despite the hot weather! We spent the morning at one of the main boulders, the AH boulder. It’s home to a few easier, but really enjoyable and high quality (“qual”) problems.</p> <p>After a long lunch break we headed back out to explore the area a bit more. Here are a few photos from the day!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5408.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody smiling his way up a slab</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5415.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Reaching for the lip</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5418.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5419.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Joey on his first outdoor V2!</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5423.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on another slab</figcaption></figure> Summer Tram 2018-09-01T02:26:00+00:00 /posts/2018-08-31-summer-tram/ <p>Jovanna and I woke up early this morning in order to squeeze in a short day at Tramway. It was a beautiful, but very hot day. We started out by warming up at the Trailside Boulders, and then spent some time looking for an area called the “Undiscovered Country” - which we very appropriately could not discover. We made a quick pit stop at Paper Dragon (V10) before continuing our search.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5609.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Topping out Paper Dragon (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5598.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Early moves of Paper Dragon (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>After that we were able to find the cluster of boulders we searched for earlier. It was fun to revisit this area since I haven’t been to it in a while. We spent a little bit of time climbing before surrendering to the mid-day heat and heading home. Here’s a few photos…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5631.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me working Somewhere In Time (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5658.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Black Cauldron (V4), an area classic</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5672.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna leading the way out :)</figcaption></figure> <p>It was nice to get back out in the mountains and explore. See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> RMNP 2018 2018-09-24T16:41:00+00:00 /posts/2018-09-24-rmnp-2018/ <p>Last Friday I set out on a week long climbing trip / vacation in Rocky Mountain National Park. I started the first half of the trip with Jovanna. We spent our first two days exploring the park and hiking. The weather was nice and the leaves were turning! On Sunday we ventured up to Lower Chaos for our first day of climbing in the park.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6038.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View of the Aspen on the way up to Lower Chaos</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6062.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View of Lake Haiyaha from Lower Chaos</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6071.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna taking a lap on one of the warm up boulders</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6072.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Re-learning the beta on Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)</figcaption></figure> <p>On Monday we hiked up to Emerald Lake and Jovanna said goodbye to RMNP. Early on Tuesday I dropped her off at the airport and picked up Itai. We rested that day, but headed in to the park on Wednesday for some climbing. We tried out new climbs and jumped on older projects. However, by midday it was already too hot for climbing and we headed back to town.</p> <p>Thankfully on Thursday temperatures dropped significantly. I was finally able to send Nuthin’ But Sunshine! We explored Upper Chaos in the afternoon before heading back. Here are some photos from those two days.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6182.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai working European Human Being (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6218%202.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me sending Nuthin’ But Sunshine (V13)!</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6239.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Top Notch (V13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6241.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Top Notch (V13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6247.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>View of the lake from Upper Chaos</figcaption></figure> <p>On our last day (Friday) we met up with Isaac and Zach for a full day in the park.We started out in Lower Chaos where we warmed up and I jumped on Secret Splendor (V12). I managed to finish it up after falling off the top the day before. After that we headed to Upper Chaos. Our first stop was at Blood Money (V12) where Itai and Isaac both easily fired the stand (which goes at about V10) and got agonizingly close to linking it from the start.</p> <p>In the afternoon we jumped on some more Upper Chaos classics like Skipper D and the El Jorge boulder. Overall it was a great day with good company and a nice way to end the trip!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6270.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Secret Splendor (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Screen%20Shot%202018-09-24%20at%208.10.50%20AM.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac getting so close on Blood Money (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6293.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Zach topping out Skipper D (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6296.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on the classic Skipper D (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6300.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Right El Jorge (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6310.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Zach turning the lip on Right El Jorge (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6342.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Itai on Left El Jorge (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6209.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you out there,</p> <p>Eden</p> Fall Opener in Bishop! 2018-11-15T02:20:00+00:00 /posts/2018-11-14-fall-opener-in-bishop/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6870.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>On Sunday morning Jovanna and I drove out to Bishop for a quick two day trip. It was the first of the season and we were both very excited to get out of the city and into the mountains. We met up with Cody and Wynne in the Buttermilks for a fun day of bouldering.</p> <p>I got to open Mandala Sit (V13) as a potential project and Jovanna made quick work of her very first V5 - Perfectly Chicken! Later in the afternoon we headed over to the Secrets of the Beehive area so I could test my span on Dave Graham’s Form Destroyer (V12). Here’s a few photos from the day…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6834.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6835.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on Knobs (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6862.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna climbing Perfectly Chicken (V5)!</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1953.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Messing around on The Sharma Traverse (V10) at sunset</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1929.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Trying to piece together the moves of Form Destroyer (V12)</figcaption></figure> <p>The second day felt considerably warmer but we managed some good sessions including Mandala Sit (V13) and Flyboy Arete (V5) before heading home in the afternoon. This trip definitely helped us get excited for the next one!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6939%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Spanned out on Mandala Sit (V13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6916%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Taking a goodbye lap on The Rising (V4)</figcaption></figure> <p>See you out there!</p> Black Mountain 2018-11-21T20:41:00+00:00 /posts/2018-11-21-black-mountain/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG-6997.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>On Sunday morning I drove out to Black Mountain with Alex and Katie for a day of bouldering. We met up with Dylan, Mikey and Alex (A.) and got started!</p> <p>We began at The Visor boulder where we warmed up and jumped on the many variations that it has to offer. By the time we left I managed to sneak in a send of Piss Mob (V11), a variation that exits the right side of the roof.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/Bishop_11_03_18_00038.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Mikey on Can Opener (V8) - Photo by Alex Aristei</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Bishop_11_03_18_00035.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex on the same - Photo by Alex Aristei</figcaption></figure> <p>Our next stop was at the classic Ex Patriot (V10/11), where the crew put in a solid session. This line lived up to the hype and I’m happy to check it off the list!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/Bishop_11_03_18_00060.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Bishop_11_03_18_00063.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Bishop_11_03_18_00068.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Finishing up Ex-Patriot (V10/11) - Photos by Alex Aristei</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG-6970.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex working Ex-Patriot (V10/11)</figcaption></figure> <p>We ended the day by checking out the Summit Corridor area. It offers many great problems like Wildcat (V8), Derailed (V5), Dekaled (V10) and the superb Brotherhood (V10).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG-6987.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on Dekaled (V10) - Photo by Katie Lawler</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/Bishop_11_03_18_00330%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Sending Brotherhood (V10) - Photo by Alex Aristei</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG-6999.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex on the big swing of Brotherhood (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>I had a great day exploring some new areas and I can’t wait to get back out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> The First of 2019: Joshua Tree 2019-01-15T16:45:00+00:00 /posts/2019-01-15-the-first-of-2019-joshua-tree/ <p>On Sunday Cody and I drove out to Joshua Tree for a quick day trip. It had rained the day before and some of the boulders were still a bit wet in the morning. However, they dried out after a few hours of intermittent sunshine. We started out in the Barker Dam area and made our way out to Planet X after lunch. We jumped on a few classic moderates and I opened up Iron Resolution as a potential project for the winter :)</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7529.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on The Chube (V2)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0076%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on the stem dyno of A Streecar Named Desire (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0088%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Working Iron Resolution (V13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7549.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody sending Strawberry Contraceptives (V7)</figcaption></figure> <p>It was nice to get back outdoors after a two month hiatus. See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Mountain Standard Photo Shoot 2019-01-17T22:41:00+00:00 /posts/2019-01-17-mountain-standard-photo-shoot/ <p>I had the pleasure of helping out the very talented Alton with a recent photo shoot for an upcoming <a href="https://mountainstandard.com/">Mountain Standard</a> product. I was once a ‘Field Agent’ for the company, but have since fallen out of touch. Anyway, here are some screen grabs from the site:</p> <figure><img src="uploads/MSScreenShot.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>my hands</figcaption></figure> Joshua Tree - Round 2 2019-01-20T05:11:00+00:00 /posts/2019-01-19-joshua-tree-round-2/ <p>On Saturday I drove out with Jovanna to Joshua Tree for my second weekend in a row at the park. We met up with Cody and Wynne at Barker Damn where we warmed up and jumped on a few classics. It was pretty hot by mid day so we stopped for lunch and waited for the shade to creep across the JBMFP area - where we spent a good portion of the afternoon. After that I had a brief sunset session on the project (Iron Resolution) while the gang supported me and nursed beers. Can’t wait for round three!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7622.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on High Noon (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7640%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Me on JBMFP (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7661%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody enjoying a fun slab</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3110%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Slow progress on Iron Resolution (V13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_7668%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna taking in the beautiful desert sunset</figcaption></figure> <p>See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Hueco Tanks - Part 1 2019-01-21T18:56:00+00:00 /posts/2019-01-21-hueco-tanks-part-1/ <p>After a few rest days and a testing drive from Denver, I exited the car and pulled on to the classic Diaphanous Sea. It had been a decade earlier that I had last been to the desert bouldering mecca. That climb and many others had been on mind ever since. Aside from Diaphanous, I managed to tick a handful more off my list on the first day, including Power of Silence, a flash of Tequila Sunrise, and a flash of Loaded with Power (without any knee-bars of course).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2495.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex on Power of Silence (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6982.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Derrick on Tequila Sunrise (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9346.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex on Loaded with Power (V10)</figcaption></figure> <p>Day two of the trip was spent on a tour to East Mountain where the whole crew got some mileage and sun. I was excited to come away with a handful of fun climbs, including a flash of New Map of Hell (V11).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4425.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Josh on the benchmark V5, Hobbit in a Blender</figcaption></figure> <p>A vertically shot video of some of the above-mentioned climbs can be found below: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z85024Ynjv8">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z85024Ynjv8</a></p> <p>We are resting our skin and avoiding the sun today, but stay tuned for updates later on in the trip!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Hueco Tanks - Part 2 2019-01-24T17:44:00+00:00 /posts/2019-01-24-hueco-tanks-part-2/ <p>After a much-needed rest day, Alex and I tested our skills on the hardman/woman testpiece of Hueco, Esperanza (V14). We were able to do every move in the first session and just about get the climb in two parts. While the climb is an ambitious goal for this trip, it was fun to play around on and open up as a future project. After Derrick dispatched Left Martini (V10) we moved on towards the See Spot Run area.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0056.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex, setting up for the crux on Esperanza (V14)</figcaption></figure> <p>Alex and I made quick work of Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12), and I ticked off Dark Age (V11) first try to finish the day.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0053.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Derrick, eyeing the undercling on Barefoot on Sacred Ground (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_1289.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself, finishing Dark Age (V11)</figcaption></figure> <p>We’ve earned ourselves some burritos and a rest day, so check in later this week for more!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Hueco Tanks - Part 3 2019-01-28T01:39:00+00:00 /posts/2019-01-27-hueco-tanks-part-3/ <p>The last day or two of the trip involved more lounging than climbing. Skin, energy, and sends were running thin on our final tour to East Mountain. Thankfully, the crew had just enough left in the tank to get a send train on the sharp and crimpy Wu-Tang.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3388%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Just moments before my blood sacrifice to Wu-Tang (V10). Photo by Ben Rampsee</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_3350.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Alex, eyeing down the next move on the same boulder. Photo by Ben Rampsee</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0103%202.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Derek, making the boulder look small</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0105.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Time to leave</figcaption></figure> <p>Gonna miss the warmth and burritos, though my fingers are mighty thankful to be leaving.</p> <p>- Itai</p> Spring Break in Red Rocks 2019-04-01T00:15:00+00:00 /posts/2019-03-31-spring-break-in-red-rocks/ <p>The original spring break plan was to be in Yosemite, but we had to bail on that due to campsite damage and weather. Because this happened relatively last minute, we quickly switched plans to Red Rocks and hoped for the best.</p> <p>Jovanna and I drove up on Wednesday morning and checked out a (new to us) canyon in the scenic loop. In the afternoon we headed over to Kraft for a short evening session.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/04BF174E-24DA-4FC3-B104-D330C86CB63A.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Fluffy Logic (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8050.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna making quick work of Bavmorda Sit (V3)</figcaption></figure> <p>On Thursday we headed out early to try and beat the heat but were not too successful. It was a fun day scoping out new problems and chasing shade in the Kraft area before heading home. Friday was a much needed rest day after two days on at the boulders and a night out on the Vegas Strip.</p> <p>Our last day in Red Rocks was Saturday, and thankfully the temperature dropped a little! I was able to piece together Woods Problem (V12) and flash Innocent Exile (V10). Jovanna gave The Pearl (V5) some more goes and tried out the classic Solange (V3). In the second half of the day we hiked out to Pine Creek Canyon where I tried Siren’s Call (V11/12) and we both enjoyed the scenery and weather.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8076.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna on The Pearl (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4192.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Woods Problem (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4195.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Innocent Exile (V10)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8083.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Solange (V3)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8099.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Can’t wait to get back out there!</p> <p>Eden</p> CO Sample Platter 2019-06-16T18:03:00+00:00 /posts/2019-06-16-co-sample-platter/ <p>Perhaps it’s time for a short update.</p> <p>The past few months in Colorado have seen little climbing due to snow, injuries, work or general lack of psyche. Despite the excuses above, I’ve still managed to visit many local crags like Wild Basin, Boulder Canyon, Eleven Mile Canyon, Thunder Ridge, Eldorado Canyon, Clear Creek, Poudre Canyon, Horsetooth Reservoir, and Shelf Road (gross).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/20190413_165436.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Mostly staring at climbs and contemplating life</figcaption></figure> <p>This past weekend, after getting amped and sunburnt from spectating the Vail World Cup, Isaac showed us around Mt. Evans. I managed to flash The Dali and made quick work of the all-time classic <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kZEKBASlH6g">No More Greener Grasses</a>. At the risk of dating myself, I had first seen a video of the climb in the Alpine Blocks section of Dosage 5 and have wanted to do it ever since.</p> <p>I am excited to get back into the swing of things this summer!</p> <p>- Itai</p> A Hot One in Tram 2019-06-29T17:06:00+00:00 /posts/2019-06-29-a-hot-one-in-tram/ <p>This Saturday I met up with Cody at Tramway for a fun day outdoors. We spent most of our time off the main sectors, chasing shade and trying to find a bit of energy. Thankfully the afternoon brought some much needed cloud coverage and wind. Here’s a few pics from the day!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0601.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Trying Somewhere in Time (V12) early in the day</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0619.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Topping out Master Blaster (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8679.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody sending Fly, Robin Fly (V6/7?)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8706.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Repeating Angus (V9)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_8710.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody playing piano on the slopers of Malcom (V6)</figcaption></figure> <p>See you out there,</p> <p>Eden</p> RMNP Season Opener 2019-07-03T18:29:00+00:00 /posts/2019-07-03-rmnp-season-opener/ <p>After the requisite early start and uphill approach, we found ourselves in lower chaos. The crew had planned on meeting at the warm-up boulder but to our surprise it was buried in snow with just the top out holds visible. Our options for the day were cut down by the freakishly snowy winter and spring here in Colorado.</p> <p>After showing the first-timers in our group the classic Tomy’s Arete, we headed towards the recently broken Deep Puddle Dynamics. I managed a second go send before the 80-degree weather crept in. After some lounging, we jumped on the long and sustained Gobot which I sent in a few tries. It looks like my sporadic sport climbing is paying off!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/GoBot.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The lower section of Gobot (V11). Photo by Coleman Becker.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/RMNP%20V11.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The upper section of Gobot (V11). Photo by Coleman Becker.</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0388.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Hiking out over the heavy snowpack.</figcaption></figure> <p>Video of the above-mentioned climbs (and several more) can be found <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lAHHoMg1xf8">here</a>.</p> <p>See you out there!</p> <p>- Itai</p> More RMNP 2019-07-29T17:27:00+00:00 /posts/2019-07-29-more-rmnp/ <p>If you can ignore the hoards of tourists, Rocky Mountain National Park is a lovely place. I did not think so at first but it has grown on me in the past few weeks. Good times in the alpine with a fine crew of people will do that!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0632.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Striking a pose</figcaption></figure> <p>While there were plenty of wobblers to be had, the trips were an overall success. Kayla took down the wonderful Windy in a Basket in a few goes, Isaac and I put Blood Money to rest, and I even managed a quick send of the life-lister Top Notch (<a href="https://youtu.be/f68S6CJ5vKg">video link</a>).</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0515.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Kayla crimping her way through Windy in a Basket (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0655.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Isaac climbing the thuggy roof of Blood Money (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0656.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Myself, on the classic Top Notch (V13)</figcaption></figure> <p>And now, here’s a rant about the disappearance of the “leave no trace” ethics.</p> <p>First, if you want to tick your climbs that’s fine, just brush your ticks off when you’re done. Second, please stop stashing pads in a fragile alpine environment. Not only is it kinda lazy, but it also illegal and jeopardizes our privileged access to these climbing areas, especially considering climbers have been warned about this in the past. In case you had doubt, here is an excerpt from an Access Fund article published in 2012 titled <a href="https://www.accessfund.org/newsletters/Spring%20VT%2013_Final.pdf">The Big W</a>:</p> <blockquote> <p>“In 2007 during a patrol, Rocky Mountain National Park rangers found 25 stashed bouldering pads in Chaos Canyon. The following summer, rangers found nine in one day. Most recently, pad stashing at Mt. Evans, another Colorado bouldering mecca, has become an issue. Stashing pads—though, admittedly convenient in a place like Rocky Mountain or Evans with their long approaches—is illegal in a Wilderness area.”</p> </blockquote> <p>This was an issue a dozen years ago, and the sport has experienced exponential growth recently with more to come when it hits the Olympics. In a more recent 2018 Access Fund article titled <a href="https://www.accessfund.org/open-gate-blog/5-things-to-know-before-you-climb-in-the-alpine">5 THINGS TO KNOW BEFORE YOU CLIMB IN THE ALPINE</a> the first ‘thing’ reads:</p> <blockquote> <p>“Stashing pads and gear is illegal in most places and hurts wildlife. We get it. Those alpine boulder approaches can be arduous. If you’re projecting, hauling all that gear is a drag. But stashing gear is not worth the price we’ll all pay for access if a land manager finds it (and trust us, they are looking). It’s also not worth the hit to your wallet or the health of wildlife if hungry marmots eat it. Mountain goats, marmots, and other wild critters crave salt, and they will munch on your sweaty pad, giving them an unhealthy mix of synthetic fibers and human salt.”</p> </blockquote> <p>There are many more articles and forums out there addressing this issue. Feel free to inform yourself and please be respectful!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0490.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The beautiful alpine wilderness of Chaos Canyon</figcaption></figure> <p>Till next time,</p> <p>- Itai</p> Vacation Climbing in Norway :) 2019-08-23T23:53:00+00:00 /posts/2019-08-23-vacation-climbing-in-norway/ <p>Jovanna and I took a 3 week vacation to celebrate finishing graduate school and the California bar exam. Our last stop of the trip was in Norway, where we explored Lofoten - an archipelago in the arctic circle. Originally, this was planned as a hiking trip, as we had no idea there was any climbing in the area. However, I eventually realized that there was in fact a lot of (incredible) climbing on the islands! Here are a few pictures of the beautiful climbs we got to sample…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_5906.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>One of the best locations for a boulder… America (6B)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9580.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Topping it out</figcaption></figure> <p>On our second to last day we explored one of the main bouldering areas in Lofoten where I sent a couple of great roof climbs called Night Rider (7C+) and Sunshine (8A+). Both climbs shared a finishing sequence but had different starts.</p> <p>After that, I tried one of Lofoten’s test pieces called Monster (8A). The rock quality, movement, and setting quickly made me realize why this was such a classic! Unfortunately it began to rain before I could send it, but I knew I’d have to stop by one last time on our way out. Thankfully I was able to grab a goodbye send before heading home!</p> <p>Here’s a link to a video containing America and Monster: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5opXYJ6H1po">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5opXYJ6H1po</a></p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6065.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The end sequence for both Night Rider (7C+) and Sunshine (8A+)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9565.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna on Rettsia (6A)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/A5904E17-7F2C-4CF1-A27E-62A953A30CFD.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Monster (8A), the area test piece!</figcaption></figure> <hr> <p>Below are a few more non-climbing photos from our trip because it would be hard not to include them!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9280.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9360.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9385.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9482.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9578.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9594.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Weekday Get-a-Ways 2019-10-02T17:33:00+00:00 /posts/2019-10-02-weekday-get-a-ways/ <p>As a 9 to 5er or weekend warrior, your climbing to do list can pile up quickly. You often only get one day outside every week. If your skin sucks or if the weather sucks or if you suck there goes your chance at the project.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0723.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The ‘drop’ in to Wolverine Land</figcaption></figure> <p>Living in a place where rock climbing is easily accessible can help mitigate the problem, though the motivation and energy to keep up any regular routine is hard to come by. Thankfully, I have found that energy (or a late cup of coffee) a few times this summer. Quick trips to either Guanella Pass or Lincoln Lake during the week help tide you over at the cost of being wrecked at work the next day. I managed to take down some classics including <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2a-O_7hMow&amp;t=9s">Dark Horse (V10), Crimping Matters (V10)</a>, and Mind Matters (V12) at Guanella and Phobos (V11), The Exfoliator (V12), and <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tBWv5VM5764&amp;t=7s">Evil Backwards (V13)</a> at Lincoln.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0430.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>A crew at the proud Dark Horse boulder</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0523.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Exfoliator by spot light</figcaption></figure> <p>With winter creeping in, the road to Lincoln Lake is closing, which signals it’s time to shift gears away from the high alpine climbing.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0517.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Lincoln Lake at sunset</figcaption></figure> <p>Till next time!</p> <p>- Itai</p> Goals 2019-10-15T17:38:00+00:00 /posts/2019-10-15-Goals/ <h2>Everyone Has Them</h2> <p>Tick certain test-pieces, reach a milestone of V somethings, do many things in a 24 hour window, do a one-arm, get out of bed, and so on. Goals are a great way to keep motivation afloat and narrow your focus. I’m typically a big fan of them, but one I keep avoiding.</p> <p>I have never truly projected anything in my 14 years of climbing. I tell myself it’s because I prefer to get more mileage under my belt and try new problems. While that holds some truth, I know there is another reason. Projecting (read: prospect of failure) terrifies me.</p> <p>As a result, I have been plateaued at the same grade for over 8 years - most of my climbing career. How can that be? I feel much more technical and experienced now but have nothing to show for it in terms of progress in difficulty. Sure, I have a better looking ‘pyramid’ but the tip is looking awfully dull.</p> <h2>Enter The Project</h2> <p>When it comes to test-pieces of a generation, Jade stands out among the rest. In recent years, the climb has seen many quick ascents by the up and coming freaks including a flash by none other than Adam Ondra. While it’s no longer one of the hardest climbs around, it’s still iconic in my eyes.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG-1016.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Move</figcaption></figure> <p>My first day working the climb I surprised myself by sticking “the move” - the definitive crux move that perhaps warrants a V13 grade on it’s own. I quickly rehearsed the upper section and began trying it from the start with high hopes. While I had a few good attempts, the rain rolled in and chased us away. The next couple of sessions I either immediately split my tips or battled rain and gale force winds. The first snow fell last week, and with it my chances of completing the climb this season.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0165.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jade: 1 | Itai: 0</figcaption></figure> <h2>Uncertainty</h2> <p>My introduction to projecting went about as well as expected. Close but no cigar. Perhaps I got too anxious, nervous, excited, or weak. Did I have bad beta? Jade is a notoriously finicky climb requiring good skin and good conditions, so perhaps I just needed a few more days of effort for it all to align. Either way, it seems like that’s what the process is all about - uncertainty.</p> <p>While projecting inherently requires perseverance, it would be easy with guaranteed success at the end. Thankfully, there’s plenty to keep my uncertain mind busy until The Park thaws out in the spring. When it does, I’ll be coming back with a vengeance.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG-0781.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>From darkness into light</figcaption></figure> <p>Till next time,</p> <p>Itai</p> Weekends in YNP 2019-10-16T18:36:00+00:00 /posts/2019-10-16-weekends-in-ynp/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9935.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>Over the last few weeks I’ve had the privilege of spending two weekends in Yosemite National Park with great company. The first weekend was in Tuolumme Meadows, right before the seasonal closure of the campgrounds. The next weekend brought me to the Valley. While neither of these trips were strictly for climbing, I still managed to sneak some in! Here’s a few pictures…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6419.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The classic G23 Arete (V6)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9914.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jovanna getting really close on the same</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6441.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Jedi Jake (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_9983.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Cody on a tough compression V5</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6686.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>No Holds and Bard (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_6718.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you guys out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> Another Yose Trip 2019-10-28T01:46:00+00:00 /posts/2019-10-27-another-yose-trip/ <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0077.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>During our last trip out to the Valley, Cody and Joe kindly invited me to crash their upcoming Yosemite weekend - I couldn’t say no! Saturday was our first day in the park and I split up from Cody and Joe while they tackled a multi-pitch route. I started off at the Bridalvail boulders and then headed over to Housekeeping before it got too warm and I called it in. I made quick work of The Seam (V11), Conan (V9), and Athletes Die Young (V5) - which were all superb. I also got really close on Wall to Wall Carpet Sit (V11), but will have to come back for it.</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0067.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The Seam (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0111.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Working Wall to Wall Carpet Sit (V11)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0100.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Athletes Die Young (V5)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0072.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Holding the swing on Conan (V9)</figcaption></figure> <p>There was a cold snap on Sunday and the temperature was set to drop about 25 degrees. Cody, Joe, and I decided to spend our morning in the Candyland sector before heading back home. We got to sample some stellar Yosemite classics including Once Upon a Time (V3) and The Diamond (V8). Later, Joe and I battled Shadow Warrior (V12) and nearly came out with sends - but the long weekend’s fatigue set in and we couldn’t link it up from the start. There’s so much to come back for in Yosemite and I can’t wait for my next trip!</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0089.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The ultra-classic The Diamond (V8)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0104.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0106.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0107.JPG" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Putting in work on Shadow Warrior (V12) with Joe</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0098.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p> A Cold Season Opener in Bishop 2019-12-16T22:28:00+00:00 /posts/2019-12-16-a-cold-season-opener-in-bishop/ <p>I met up with Alex and Ben on Sunday morning at the Bardini Boulders. Ben was visiting from out of state and had his eyes set on projecting A Maze of Death (V12) during his first time out in Bishop. With highs forecasted in the mid 30s, the weather was looking perfect for trying hard - <s>once</s> if you were able to get warm. Ben quickly unlocked all the moves but will have to come back for the full send. I’m sure it’ll go quick next time!</p> <p>After that session we headed over to the Pollen Grains where I jumped on Spectre (V13), and did my best to work through the beta and body positioning. I think I made some good progress! Unfortunately, the sun quickly dipped below the mountains bringing shade and a hefty temperature drop. We decided to call it a day and head back into town for some food and beer.</p> <p>The next day we ran around the main Buttermilks area trying classics and projects before heading home. I’m excited to get back to Bishop this season and continue working Spectre, so I’ll see you guys out there!</p> <p>Here’s a few photos from the trip…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_4169.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ben working on A Maze of Death (V12)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_2345.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Giving a burn on Spectre (V13)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0409.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Views from the Bardini Boulders</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0448.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>Ben sending High Plains Drifter (V7)</figcaption></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0412.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"><figcaption>The walk back from the Pollen Grains</figcaption></figure> Trailside Boulders at Black 2020-02-03T00:45:00+00:00 /posts/2020-02-02-trailside-boulders-at-black/ <p>Last Saturday Mikey and I made the trek up to The Trailside Boulders at Black Mountain. It was a fun day exploring and climbing with other groups. We both managed to leave with a send of the ultra classic Twilight of the Idols (V10). I also sent a few other climbs in the area including Shoot the Moon (V10), Lightning (V8/9) and great slab called Diamond Zen Face (V0). Now we can both rest easy at night, knowing we won’t have to make that hike again :)</p> <p>Here are some pictures from the day…</p> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0682.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0662.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0646.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <figure><img src="uploads/IMG_0629.jpg" alt="" loading="lazy"></figure> <p>See you all out there!</p> <p>- Eden</p>